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Try this approach.
I suggest you to use max 2,2 Kohm with highly increased boost. Different R138 is just for compensating impedance of the outer circuit. You can cut RPM signal, for example by cutting R23 off. This is one way to experiment with different settings... You can take off capacitor C11. More stabile boost. You can connect 330ohm resistor "over" (parallel) a pressure transducer, gives higher boost on active range. 330 takes the stock 0,7bar to about 1,0bar. I personally prefer settings as follows: R42 - bypassed, R138 - 31Kohm, P-23Kohm , F-360ohm. Fast, quite stabile boost up to 5800 rpm. (peaks @1,15bar , slightly comes down to 1,0bar) Very sensitive to knock!! You can make your box to stay on a passive "default" duty cycle to red line and adjust boost only with P pot - need to replace R42 with a 2,3Kohm resistor and connect R41 and R101 together from the "right side", when viewing text marks right way. This will give you a really smooth, directly adjustable with P, boost that doesn't dip or do any kinds of shaking when the boost/revs go higher. You might want to take the pot P out from the box and put it in the cabin. In this case APC doesn't care about the actual pressure or revs, just the KNOCK itself. Boost will taper a bit when running higher revs, but this is just because of "mechanical" losses, not APC adjusting it lower. Engine needs so much air at high revs/boost that stock turbo simply cannot give enough. Remember APC doesn't _adjust_ boost, just keeps solenoid duty cycle running with adjusted default value. If you'll adjust wastegate, that'll adjust overall boost.
-Kevin K.
posted by 198.81.1...
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