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What should I do:
OPTION 1: -Add 1 megaohm resistor between bottom pin of R47 and RH pin of R83
-Add 1.5 megaohm resistor between top of R36 and jumper P03
-Remove R23
-Over capacitor D24 (Thaddäus Delebinski just brought this to my attention. I think this should be a diode, not a capacitor - Eric), add 2.2 megaohm resistor (piggyback). I'm guessing this might be a dummy circuit to detect copying of the G6 mods.
Sub board:
-Substitute C1 with .22 microfarad mylar film capacitor
-Remove C5
-Substitute C6 with disc capacitor (guessing .473 microfarad, number of cap was "473". I had in junkbox and used one with value of "472".
Important note: A '473' capacitor has a value of 47 mF, whereas one marked with '472' is 4.7 mF. Although Paul Ellis' DIY modified APC box seems to work very well as described, it is strongly advised that you use the same value as in the original, professionally modified box from which the component changes were copied.
-Adjust "P", "F" and "K" pots to taste. I turned the "P" pot 1/8 turn clockwise, the "F" just under 1/4 clockwise and chose to leave the K pot alone (chicken, yes).
OR
OPTION 2: "You can make your box to stay on a passive "default" duty cycle to red line and adjust boost only with P pot - need to replace R42 with a 2,3Kohm resistor and connect R41 and R101 together from the "right side", when viewing textmarks right way.
This will give you a really smooth, directly adjustable with P, boost that doesn´t dip or do any kinds of shaking when the boost/revs go higher."
This means that boost pressure sensing circuit ("F") has by-passed and impuls "dose", in other words "P" setting, controls only the boost (of
course, "K" circuit is untouched, but this is another story). APC-box with these settings is well-known Swedish tuning company's product. I have
similar APC box in my car, but R42 is now 500ohm. I had first R42 with 2.3Kohm value. However, I observed that spool up of the boost with R42 and
500 ohm is much quicker :-) I have replaced "P" with two conducting wire, and connected these wires to 47kohm LIN potentiometer (located in cabin).
SO do I do option 1 or 2 and do I leave on 25, 26, 28, 31????
I want someting really close to my Stage 1 SPG9 box, (my brother dropped it and now it doesn't work the same. I would to keep running the 20psi that I did on My T3
Lastly If I do option 2 do I also need to do option 1 at the same time???
ANY AND ALL INFO HELPS PLEASE ANYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!
'90 SPG
Mohammad
MODS:
K&N
AMM Mod
AID
9K IC
T3
30# injectors
3 BAR FPR
2.1 intake
Bluerpinted 2.1 head
Lightened flywheel
Stright through Exaust
ported Exaust Manifold
No Cat
Well thats just some of the big Mods lots, lots more
posted by 198.81.16...
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