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I had my box set up this way for a while. Yes, the boost is directly adjustable w/P pot. Yes it stays at that level until redline. What it does not tell you is that you lose about 1000rpm from the bottom of your powerband. The default duty cycle at which the apc solenoid operates is controlled by the P pot. It sets a frequency at which the solenoid cycles, telling your wastegate where to hold the boost level. The drawback is that with the solenoid cycling, the wastegate will not be closed in the lower rpm range/before boost builds. You will feel this as your turbo not making boost until 3000-3500 when you try to beat that guy next to you. I saw 23psi with it the first night (immediatly pulled over and turned it down), so it is good for the levels it claims if you can live with the extra lag.
My advice would be to follow the "red box" specs, then replace the F pot with one of greater resistance, and mount it wherever you like (cabin, fender, etc). This way you can spec a higher boost level than the red box will provide, yet you still have quick (relatively) spoolup in the lower gears at the stoplight.
Ultimately (though some time before stand-alone management) I will have a switch on my dash that sets either high or low boost through circuits of different adjustable resistances for the F-pot. This switch will also activate h20 injection in the high setting.
Right now my box is stock component-wise. The F-pot is all the way up, the P is about 75%. This gives me about 17psi peak, and tapers to around 14-15 at redline. Works very well for my current state of tune, but with all the engine work you are doing, you would want to replace the F-pot to achieve higher boost. Good luck, and I hope to see you at Coors field this weekend. My car is red w/big gaudy gold 17s (they were DIRT cheap).
Andy
Boulder
posted by 216.241....
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