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I routinely use a mix of parts from indy repair places (ScanWest in Seattle), on-line shops (http://www.eeuroparts.com, thepartsbin.com), and - finally - dealers when I need them. Where I look first depends on what I need. For run-of-the-mill engine stuff (where I don't need advice and I just want a low price), I prefer on-line vendors.
I question your need to replace valves and pistons. If the head is junk (you need valves?) and the block is junk (you need pistons?), why are you rebuilding this one? Running c900 motors are cheap, and IMO would be a better starting point for you.
But let's say you are rebuilding no matter what - it's fun anyway. Here are some prices that I pulled off thepartsbin.com online catalog for your '89 900T:
std. piston set w/ rings, Mahle $302 (call for price on oversize)
std. piston rings (only), Goetze $63
main bearings $48 ($41 for .010" over)
rod bearings $38 ($41 for .010" over)
head gasket set, Elring $93
timing chain $37
chain guide, tensioner side $26
chain guide, fixed $32
oil pump oring seal $3
intake valve, TRW $24
...so this isn't every little part you would need (for instance, I could not find the oring from the oil pick-up tube to the oil pump) but it sure would take care of the bulk of the expensive stuff.
From a rebuild perspective, changes to the bottom end will not make big hp gains. Just concentrate on getting it put together right. When I first rebuilt my SPG motor, I overbored 1mm to 91mm and bought a set of 8V APC 900T pistons. These have slightly lower compression (8.25:1) which facilitates higher boost levels at the expense of slower throttle response, less torque off-boost, etc. If I was starting over, I'd utilize H2O injection to raise the boost levels safely, and keep the stock c.r. or raise it slightly.
Use stock rods - they ain't light, but they are basically bullet-proof. If you want, you can balance them and possibly shot peen & polish them for strength. Polish & balance the crankshaft. Lighten and balance the flywheel. Balance the flywheel w/ pressure plate attached. Inspect and (probably) reuse the timing chain gears, timing chain tensioner, oil pick-up tube, oil pump, etc. Have the block hot-tanked, cleaned, and new freeze plugs installed (even if they look fine, they probably aren't). Check the bores for damage, straightness, out-of-round, taper, etc.
What does make power? Again, from a rebuild perspective (in other words, not counting bolt-ons), you will get the most power for the money w/ the cylinder head: in the form of cams, porting, gasket matching (in that order). This is all in the $450-$800 range at a competent shop.
Hope this helps. Damien
posted by 63.207.93...
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