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Hi all,
Thought I'd share my progress (and data) since I know there are several others out there at about the same stage as my mods.
Car:
90 SPG (LH 2.4, TE05)
Mods:
K&N cone filter (Swedish Dynamics)
30 lb/hr injectors
300 Ohm resistor on the AMM line (per Brad)
Modified Vacuum Advance - 11 degrees (George's Imports)
IC Fan (George's Imports)
Modified APC - set at 20 psi max boost
[Note: stock 2.5 bar FPR]
Dyno:
Dynojet with no fan for cooling (but pulls only take a few seconds). My pulls were at a Mustang and Focus performance/restoration place 3 miles from my house. Mine was the first SAAB they have ever dynoed and were suprised the numbers were as high as they were.
Bottom line: I'm getting detonation so boost is all over the place and very incosistant. I got peak HP of 204 and 199 and peak torque of 252 and 255. Scroll down to see the graph. Read further for more possibly interesting details.
I put it on the dyno because I'm getting detonation. Even though everyone assured me that I would not be running lean and that was not the cause of my detonation, I wanted to know what my air/fuel was. As you can see, I'm not running lean.
My boost hits 20 psi around 3100 RPM and only holds at 20 for a few hundred RPM then it starts a dance down to about 11-12 by 5000 RPM. By dance I mean back off a few pounds due to detonation, try to push it back up, back off a few more, repeat. You can see this on the dyno graph below.
So, looks like I have three choices:
1) Back off the boost (Yeah right!)
2) Bigger/better located IC
3) Aquamist 2C
It seems like the Aquamist 2C would be the cheapest of 2 and 3 and yield the best results. If you look at the two runs, I've got peak power of 199 and 204, but they are at over 300 RPMs apart due to this boost problem! So, I've got an easy 210-215 at the wheel if I control the detonation (probably more with the extra 5-8% the aquamist will give me above just controlling detonation).
For a reference, I G-Tech Pro tested my car also to test HP. I G-Teched the unmodded car and right before the below dyno runs. The weather conditions of both G-Tech runs were similar (about 70 degrees and 65% humidity). I have G-teched 4 different cars after the dyno (2 SAABs and 2 BMWs), and I usually get readings about 2% lower than the dyno (the G-tech guys say this is because of the wind resistance since the G-Tech does the pull on a moving car). It is tricky to get the weight right, but if you do, I'm amazed at how accurate the G-Tech Pro is. The peak HP figures on the G-Tech were:
Unmodded: 148 HP
Modded: 198 HP
These figures look quite right to me. Although there has been a recent post claiming that drivetrain loss on a C900 is 21-23%, I don't find that lines up with manufacturer claims. I find about 14.4% to be right. If we look at my unmodded number, adjust up 2% (for G-tech error) then add in the 14.4% drivetrain loss, we get quite close to the manufacturer numbers:
148 * 1.02 = 151
151/.856 = 176.4
176.4 is quite close to the claimed 175.
I also justify the 2% G-tech adjustment on the last run because 198 adjusted up 2% puts the car at 202 which is right between the two pulls.
Idle speculation, but with water injection, I should see around 215 at the wheels which would be about 250 at the flywheel. Not bad for about $1100 in mods (current $415 plus $690 for the aquamist).
Dyno image should be below. Thanks to Brad at George's Imports and this board for getting me this far.
I'll post dyno results after the water injection. Then on the mod list is an exhaust and mitsubishi turbo specific downpipe Brad is working on. I'm expecting to see over 225 wheel HP (over 260 flywheel) on the stock turbo!
Dave D
90 SPG
posted by 69.3.7...
, Wed, 4 Dec 2002 19:12:25
, Mon, 2 Dec 2002 00:46:07
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