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Hi Phil,
I learned quite a bit this week. My turbo rebuilding guy built me a special T3 with larger Nisson turbo housing, with a special lighter Mustang SVO turbo impellor, then preformed an extra special turbine wheel clipping or bending on the exhaust impellor, then he installed .005 larger bearings. This set up should spool as quick or quicker than stock and give me a huge gain in mid and top end to boot. The stock 4CYD SVO was quick the little port fuel-injected, turbocharged, and intercooled engine produced 205 bhp at 5000 rpm and generated 240 lbs of torque at 3000 rpm. The turbo should be more reliable with lag being virtually nonexistent.
I hope to be hitting 240 or 250 HP and 300LBS of torque. I'll be making dyno runs and fine tuning early April.
I'll send you updates. Also my waste gate actuator was to tight and wouldn't start opening until 10-11 lbs of boost this probably explains my detonation? I have the 18LB SPG9 actuator and it must be adjusted exactly right. I think it now starts to crack open at 5 lbs I'll find out and let you know. I think the basic is 3.5 turns in but Charlie tested and adjusted this with Vacuum or is it pressure? He's been building turbos only for racers for 34 years so he's an old stud and extremely knowledgeable.
He explained many turbos and turbo seals are blown or get massive blow by from a dirty air filer. I knew this but wasn't sure exactly why. Higher boosts with restrictive air filter create excess heat and an proportional imbalance on the turbos input and exhaust side and can cause turbo seal failure. Also cleaning the IC every few years is a very good idea. I will remove mine and follow the steps below. You have to be careful to use the proper solvent, YOU MUST NOT USE combustible or flammable solvents. Or your intercooler can turn into a bomb, unless you clean it with soap and water after. I've included three articles I found. I posted them what I feel is the proper technique as #1. I hope this posting helps a few people?
What is perchloroethylene you ask ?
http://www.hsia.org/white_papers/perc%20wp.htm
Proper Intercooler cleaning:
1) Let drain well (remove the plug) at all angles.
2) Put the plug back in. Rinse with a pint or two of Naptha solvent (or other non hostile oil solvent per Don - DON'T ----- I WILL REPEAT------ DO NOT use Acetone, Toulene, MEK, etc - If you don't understand this part skip this step!!) Anyway rinse with Naptha solvent, then let it drain again. Repeat till it drains pretty clean.
3) Blow it out with water.
4) Put the plug back in. Pour in a goodly amount of Simple Green or citrus cleaner or some other cleaner that does not contain sodium hydroxide. DO NOT use Castrol Super Clean or Zep purple cleaner. These have sodium hydroxide that will etch aluminum. (Great cleaners btw, but NOT for aluminum intercoolers!!) So swish the safe cleaner around really well, rinse and repeat 'till the IC is clean.
5) Rinse really well with clean water, drain and blow as much water out as possible. Now you need to get it dry.
6) Put the plug back in. Pour a few pints of isopropyl alcohol (again no nasty solvents) in and swish around well. Repeat. Drain and blow dry.
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#2 Grand National Intercooler cleaning tips.
It is also a good idea to annually pull the intercooler out of the car and perform a thorough cleanup both inside and out. Once the intercooler is out of the car, you can begin the cleanup procedure. First, spray an entire can of the oxygen sensor safe carb cleaner into the intercooler.
Do this in a well ventilated area! "Slosh" the fluid around in the intercooler for several minutes. Then dump the fluid out and repeat until the resulting fluid is clean.
Once it is clean, I normally go to the car wash and use the high pressure washers to clean the fins and the outside of the intercooler. This removes the road grime, bugs, etc. from the fins and ensures that the intercooler has good air flow. Be sure to be careful not to bend or crush the fins when using the high pressure washer. You can also use the LOW pressure setting on the washer to rinse out the inside of the intercooler. This will remove any residue left from the carb cleaner.
Finally, I like to take my Wet/Dry Shop Vacuum and duct tape the hose to the intercooler tube. I then tape a thin shop rag over the other tube and let the vacuum run for an hour or so with the intercooler in the inverted position. This will remove most of any remaining moisture from the intercooler.
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#3
Set the drain bucket under the intercooler so that the cleaning solvent and oil will drain into it. Working from the top, spray the entire remaining amount of carburetor cleaner into the top of the intercooler outlet hose. Go CRAZY! Just let it run. You could even seal off the intercooler down below and fill the thing up with solvent and let it sit there and work for a few minutes, if you want to. Eventually you'll run out of spray. (It'll take a while.) By the end there was nothing but clean solvent running out the bottom!
Now you have to flush out all that solvent and it's related fumes from the intercooler so your car doesn't explode when you start it.
You may want to put a bigger drain bucket under there if you don't want a whole bunch of dirty water and soap bubbles running down your driveway. Squirt a small amount of dishwashing soap into the empty gallon jug and fill it with water. Working quickly, pour the entire contents into the top of the intercooler outlet hose and let it drain down through the intercooler. Just flood the sucker! Once that is done, rinse out the jug thoroughly and follow your soapy water enema with TWO gallons of clean water. (You probably don't want soap bubbles spewing out your tailpipe, do you?
Take care,
Dave
posted by 198.95.226...
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