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An age old question. The advice is to start at close to full soft, then find your comfort zone for every day driving. For selected occations you can increase the settings in a couple of minutes, then reset afterwards.
Running stock SE springs or lower? The stock vertical travel is limited and you can often be riding on the bump stops. You can hack off part of the bump stops to get more vertical travel, I removed the bottom part up to the first 'waist', removing perhaps a full inch, perhaps more. Worked very nicely with SE springs. Had Koni's, VRK and SAS.
If you run shorter springs, you loose that much vertical travel.
Brad stated that what I did to the bump stops probably improved the ride characteristics handling. With the change to the Koni's and shortening the bump stops at teh same time, all I know is that things were very nice. I did the VRK, tehn SAS bar, then the shocks.
With the SAS, the rear axle is getting quite rigid. A bump on both wheels transmits through both shock towers. So for many road shock events, there are two active shocks where there was more like only one before. So in some ways the rear axle can be overdamped with the SAS installed. So keep that in mind. And someone, in Greece I beleive, has a wipe out after accidently setting to full hard on the rear axle. Apparently the shocks can ?pump up? and lead to a loss of control.
I found that with the VRK, the system worked best with very little toe-in. When adjusting that myself, and doing some test runs, you find that if the toe-in is a bit off, the steering gets heavy and not responsive. I used an inexpensive toe-in guage. It takes a while to get it dialed in, not a set and go job. Abbott recommended higher toe-in, which seems very wrong to me. And in the wet, ice and snow, you do not want the front tires fighting each other!
posted by 66.142.22...
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