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Hi Al,
Vacuum lines can be frustrating on the old Saabs. I ran a two barrel Weber 32/36 on one of my Sonetts for years. Right now it has a single barrel 34ICH...which is a long story...so from memory...
Anyway, here's my advice: simplify.
1. No need for a decel valve. If you really really want one, I could probably scrounge one up for you. Most of us have junked them years ago.
2. The top of the thermostat cover on the Sonett's has a little thermostatic deal that has 3 vacuum hoses going to it. Don't bother with any of them! It's supposedly to provide a little more advance when the motor is hot. The Sonett manual shows their connection, if you insist. But wait until later when you get things running properly.
3. Both the Weber and the intermediate plate have vacuum fittings on them. These matter. To get the car running, hook up the one on the Weber to the advance side of the distributor (the pointy end that sticks up). Plug the one on the intermediate plate. Later, you can connect this to the retard side of the distributor if you want.
4. The intermediate plate also has a fitting for a PCV valve. The valve needs to be working and connected to the valve cover. To check it, remove it, shoot a little carb cleaner in it to clean it, and see if it rattles (it should). Then alternately suck and blow into it. It should only go one way. If it doesn't, replace it.
5. With the Sonett, you have no brake booster, so you don't need a connection to that. All the two barrel intermediate plates I've seen have only a single fitting- but if there are two, the second would be for the brake booster and needs to be plugged.
6. The distributor has another vacuum fitting that is used for retard on decel. You can leave that open for now.
7. Which reminds me- check the vacuum advance to see if it's working properly. Suck on the hose connected to the advance (pointy) side and see that the distributor rotates slightly (with the distributor cap off).
8. Set your timing to 6 degrees STATIC timing. To do this, rotate the engine by pushing the car until the timing mark on the balance shaft pulley is at 6 degrees, with #1 at TDC. Loosen the distributor and rotate until the rotor points exactly toward the mark on the distributor top edge. If it points opposite it, you have #4 on TDC. Rotate the engine around one more time. The theory behind this method has been discussed at length- seems that some mechanical advance gets added in at normal idle speed, so you set it with the engine off. Jack Ashcraft always preached to ground out the coil wire and set it at cranking speed with a strobe for the same reason. Statically works just fine.
Anyway, start off very simply and get the car running, the idle set and the mixture set. If you want to add in a more complicated advance system, have at it. All you really need is advance from the carb and could plug everything else.
eric in vermont
posted by 68.142.5...
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