Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 16:20:27 GMT From: coxinga <coxinganopsameja.com> Subject: 1994 9000CS timing chain
After returning from vacation in the end of April, I got a motor with 69k miles to replace mine 100k mile one which was damaged when the Woodruff key was sheared off at the tip on the timing chain sprocket, making it not turning the cam. After considerable car putting in the motor, it won't start. The following is what I wrote to ask the Saabmasters at Townsend motors but was returned undelivered for some reason. I thought I share it with you. Any help is appreciated. [begin quote] What damage may cause to the ignition system by turning over the motor with the Direct Ignition cartridge removed from the spark plugs but connected to the wiring? The Haynes manual (page 5B.2) says it will damage the DI cartridge. Will it also damage the Engine Control Unit? Also can I test for sparks by removing the DI with all four spark plugs attached to it? I put in a '94 motor with 69k miles in place of my 100k one which was damaged by the timing chain. The timing chain did not break. But the chain was not being turned by the crank shaft on the old motor to drive the cams because the tip of the Woodruff key on the crank shaft, which the timing chain sprocket engages, was sheared off and failed in fatigue. When I opened up the timing chain cover and found that out, I reversed the Woodruff key, put the chain back and did a compression test to verify compression (there was none). When I did the compression test, the DI cartridge was connected to the wiring leading to the ECU. It may have damaged the DI cartridge. Not wanting to mess around with head rebuild and potentially damaged pistons, rods and crankshaft, I decided to replace the motor. To make a long story short, after I put in the motor with considerable care, I started the engine. The motor turns over. But won't start. Initially I loosened the fuel pod to the injectors and saw no fuel. But that's before I suspected the DI cartridge on the new (well, used) motor was bad and replaced it with the DI cartridge on the damaged motor (the one I did the compression test). Later, I turned the ignition key on and heard the click of the pump relay in the engine compartment. Also, I jumpered the fuel pump connector (fuse 14) to the hazard switch (fuse 22) and heard the fuel pump whine. After a few minute, the presence of fuel was confirmed by loosening the bolt on the fuel pod to the injectors, where fuel starts to seep out. Still the motor won't start (with the DI cartridge suspicious of being damaged). Now that fuel is confirmed in the fuel pod, could I remove the DI cartridge, with the spark plugs attached to see if sparks are produced when the engine turns over? My next step is to replace the damaged DI cartridge with the good one (the one which came with the 69k mile motor) and try starting again. If that fails, what else could be wrong? Does the ECU need to be reset? Of course I could do the compression test on the 69k motor, this time with the wire disconnected from the DI cartridge. I highly suspect they sold me a bad motor though. Is there a way to test the DI cartridge and the ECU standing alone? [end quote] coxinga -- Coxinga/ The 17th century warlord, son of a pirate, who was bestowed the last name of Ming emperors. He defeated the Dutch to capture Formosa. A rare victory in the struggle against colonialism by the East. It spelled the beginning of the end for the Dutch East India Co. Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy.
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