Date: 29 Nov 2004 19:13:01 GMT
From: Dave Hinz <>
Subject: Re: EXH light on '86 900

On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 13:51:50 -0500, KeithG <> wrote: > 1) EXH light is a mileage thing I am pretty sure. There is a reset > button back there somewhere. Search on Saabnet. I am sure it will turn > up. This is only on the CIS cars (8V here in the US) Ugh. Saabnet's search function. To save anyone else the pain, here's what I (eventually) found: "All that is required is follow the wire from the instrument cluster down into the dash to the box, which has a reset button on it. It might be easier to reach from underneath." Yes, it's an 8V CIS. I'll find the button, and then I'll be able to take the piece of duct tape off of the instrument cluster. Fun buying an almost 20 year old car from at least two non-saabish owners. At least 3 of the rotors were warped, the gas cap was, well, not just wrong but didn't seal _at all_, the dashboard had been pulled out to install a POS radio, the heat didn't work, and the car had a HUGE vacuum leak. The lack of heat and the vacuum leak were, of course, the rod to the heater control valve from the dash panel, and the vacuum switch connector to the back of the switch. Put those back in, fixed the no-heat, fixed most of the running problems, fixed the heater control stuff, fixed the moan from the vacuum reservoir check valve (due to constant flow). Replaced about 8 feet of vacuum hose that was slightly crunchy and/or swollen. Brake rotors (front) went well, but I had to make the rotator tool for the pistons because I lent mine out (anybody? Hello?) and don't remember to whom. Bled the brakes, they still sucked. New brake master cylinder, all better. Rebuilt cylinder was only 30 bucks more than the rebuild kit, so I went the lazy way and used it. Brakes now work great. > 2) normal. You are creating a big vacuum leak by opening the filler cap. > IIRC, It screws with CIS more so than LH. This car is, in fact, CIS. Haven't had one in a while so I'm not surprised that I hadn't noticed that. > The gasket under the cap is > pretty important, too. It is probably pretty hard by now and should be > replaced. DO not think it is available separately, but one can be made > from a piece of rubber... McMaster Carr or local inner tube? I'll check and proceed accordingly. I have some butyl rubber membrane from a roofing project, I'll check oil compatibility first though. > 3) This is an 8V, no? Never done it on an 8V, but guess it is probably > similar to a 16V. remove distributor, replace oring, replace > distributor, set timing. I didn't think there'd be anything strange there. ISTR that there's an offset cog type thing so I can't screw up the timing. Need new plugs and to time the beast anyway, might as well do cap & rotor while I'm at it, I suppose. Valve cover leaks too, oddly enough, and it looks like when I have the distributor off is the perfect time to deal with that. Thanks, Dave Hinz

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