1999-2009 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
 | [Main 95 Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Prev by Date | Next by Date | Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
Re: Exhaust manifold stud Posted by SWEDECAR [Email]  (#112)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from SWEDECAR) on Tue, 26 Apr 2005 16:53:12
In Reply to: Exhaust manifold stud, Jerzy.TEX, Tue, 26 Apr 2005 16:19:50 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
It might be possible to extract without removing manifold but you need to know exactly what you are doing or you might end up creating more problems for later on even when the manifold is removed.
The key is to be able to get the first pilot hole as perfectly in the center of stud as possible.
I use an angle drill with a 5/64 or 3/32 brand new drillbit. I also have a stud extractor kit with several guide spacers for the drill bit.
One of the spacers fit in the hole of exhaust manifold and the spacer have a smaller hole in the center where I insert the drill bit and that way get the drill bit fairly close to center of broken stud.
I drill just a little bit (~3/32 deep) into the stud and check my work to see if the drillbit is centered. If not, I can always make the drill wander a little bit side ways by tilting the angle drill.
When I see that the hole is perfectly in the center I drill down about 1/4" deep.
Then I change to a 1/8" drill bit and open up the hole to that size.
Now I can tap in a 1/8 extractor bit and check if I manage to move the stud inwards (deeper into head) or if I'm lucky, out of the head.
If I feel that the stud is tightening up going out I stop and screw it back into the head and remove extractor bit.
Now I use a 5/16" drill and remove the outer threads of the aluminum cylinder head that has been damaged by the shank of the old stud and then insert the extractor bit again and screw the stud out.
Many people get into trouble but not centering the first drill bit and so forth they drill halfway into stud and halfway into cylinder head, successfully locking the stud when inserting the extractor bit.
The other mistake is to force the stud out and subsequently seizing the stud on the damage threads in cylinder head, breaking the hardened extractor bit and create a mess for the next person who tries to get the stud out.
In a good case scenario using the best tools, it is an hour or less to extract just one stud.
So this is one of the jobs where it might pay off to find a professional that knows what he is doing instead of trying yourself?
Good luck
Anders
, Wed, 27 Apr 2005 04:39:15
, Wed, 27 Apr 2005 08:43:52, Tue, 26 Apr 2005 16:53:12 <-- Viewing This Message, Tue, 26 Apr 2005 18:18:41, Tue, 26 Apr 2005 18:22:43
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
