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This is the only manual section that is printed on paper (or at least, was, in 2002).
The manual shows wiring for all markets including those with halogen high beams augmenting the biXenon high beams. The US wiring harness wires are all of the same gauge, so wiring isn't an issue. Other markets include a comparing circuit to detect burned out halogen high beams which the US circuit lacks - instead the US circuit has that relay (relay 666 on my diagram - aptly named) that supresses halogen lights when the Xenon beams are active (either DRL or low beam).
All the wiring modification can be done inside the headlight relay box. What I did is jumper the line from the biXenon "motor" (which drops the shutter, converting the Xenon to a wide spread "high" beam) to the halogen filament. I also cut one wire to relay 666 because I noted that if a high beam wire developed a short, having both high beams joined at the relay meant that both high beam fuses would blow. Its just a matter of wrestling the relay panel out of the box (it's held down with plastic tabs), installing two jumpers and (I recommend) making one cut. I used crimp type connectors like you get from an electrical supply (like Home Depot). You could also solder. Don't use wire nuts. Then it's cram the wiring back into the box. Taking it slowly and carefully, doing everything the first time (pulling out the relay board, finding the wires, making the mod, and putting it back) is a couple of hours. The fifth time someone does it will take 10 or 15 minutes.
What I did presents no risk to the wiring. The circuit is fused, the wire gauge is proper for the task, all I'm doing is feeding the high beams through the same gauge wiring as the European spec cars use. There is no risk to the Xenon lights - I just pull power from the line that drives the shutter motor. The shutter is spring loaded, so if power is cut from the shutter motor, the light reverts to low beam. I've had the modification for 2 years plus - the only difference is better light. The halogen beam is very narrow, which nicely complements the wide beam created by the Xenon. Remember the Xenon is designed for a wide spread "low beam" pattern, and switching it doesn't narrow the beam. It simply removes the beam cut-off. IT's still a wide beam, and lacks the long distance "throw" of the halogen beam. Even though the Xenon has several times the light output, it is spread over a wide range.
I would hesitate to try this without a wiring diagram. There is no substitute for being able to trace the wires by color code back to the components they connect.
posted by 65.185.164...
, Sun, 24 Jul 2005 11:09:27
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