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Nothing like doing the toughest job....
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Posted by MI-Roger [Email] (#882) [Profile/Gallery] (more from MI-Roger) on Wed, 13 Sep 2006 15:24:30 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: How to replace center/middle pulley?, Higgs, Wed, 13 Sep 2006 15:03:41
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Yes, it can be done with the engine in the car. Yes, it is a bugger of a job.

1) Since you have already done the belt and top pulley I won't bore you with the details of how to get those parts off, but they will have to be removed again - temporarily.

2) Remove the tensioner assembly. There is a single socket head screw dead-center (8mm allen wrench maybe) in the tensioner body which secures it to the engine.

3) Drape shop cloths or old towels over the engine sub-frame to cover all openings that a nut/bolt/washer could fall into.

4) Remove the center idler pulley. There is only 1mm or so clearance between the car's body and the screw head as the last thread of the bolt disengages from the threaded boss on the engine.

5) Insert the new bolt (or re-use the old one) in the bore of the new pulley. Criss-cross two pieces of duct tape across the face of the pulley securing the bolt into the pulley. DO NOT wrap the tape over the edge of the pulley, and it is best if you deliberately double over the ends of both tape pieces for ease of removal later.

6) Place the washer on the threaded boss which is the pulley mount.

7) Eye-balling things carefully, position the taped together pulley/bolt immediately in front of the threaded boss. Using the pulley as a crude hand-wheel start threading the bolt into the boss. You must be very careful, the engine face plate is soft aluminum and the bolt is hard steel, cross threading could be extremely expensive! It took me almost 30 minutes to get things properly aligned, it could also take only 30 seconds.

8) Once the bolt is treaded well into the boss, use a pair of needle nose pliers to reach down into the engine compartmemt and grab the doubled-over ends of the duct tape to remove it from the pulley.

9) Continue tightening the pulley bolt using the appropriate wrench.

10) Re-install the tensioner pulley, re-install the top idler, re-install the serpentine belt.

One of the toughest jobs, due only to lack of room and difficulty seeing the critical alignment. Credit goes to WRAY, a past poster, for this geat idea of taping the bolt into the pulley.

posted by 68.40.14...

_______________________________________ Saabs owned: 2008 9-5 Aero Sedan, sold at 227K miles 2006 9-3SC 2.0T - Wife's daily driver 2000 Viggen Convertible - Sold May, 2022 1964 Quantum IV Formula Car - Retirement project 2000 9-5lpt Sedan, sold at 318K miles


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