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I want to start off by thanking Swedecar for responding to my direct e-mail on Christmas day. What a great guy. I just wish he was in NC. Now off to the fix.
The testing I have done are the following.
1. I tested the yellow and black wire to the limp home solenoid and the black test continuity ground and the yellow does not.
2. I have cranked the car and tested the yellow wire and no power is on that wire with the car running.
3. I have pulled the relay in L1 and tested it with a 9 volt battery and it test good, actuate the coil and continuity is closed on the other circuit, 4 prong relay. One side of the circuit to connect is hot with power and the other is not.
4. I have removed the limp home solenoid and tested it with a 9 volt battery, by quick touch (low ionic ) and it actuates with test leads.
5. I have actuated the relay from under the dash with test leads by sending power from the power pole to the yellow wire with my wife having her finger on the solenoid on the throttle body and it actuates and sent the throttle body into limp home mode where both sections move with the throttle cable which forced me to reset the limp home mode.
6. I have examined the yellow and black wire at the connector to the limp home solenoid and the yellow had some bare wire showing with cracked insulation at the very top of the connector and I cleaned and taped this up to no avail.
7. The car when reset, clear codes, with an Autoxray OBDII unit always faults with a light on the second drive cycle as the WIS says it will.
Due to the slightly frayed insulation on the yellow wire at the connector I probably should replace the connector. It could use some more slack in the wire from the engine harness around the back of the plastic intake pipe. I do not think this is the cause due to test 5 above. I don’t see how I did this replacing the heater valve but it did not have a light on before.
The Fix
I sat down with the wiring diagrams and knew that I have tested every part of the wiring except the pin 36 of the computer to the limp home relay’s white wire that triggers the relay. I made up a long wire with a blade end on it and filed the blade till it was the same size as the limp home relay plug for the white wire and removed the relay and plugged in the 20 foot test wire. No continuity existed from the relay to the pin 36 on the computer under the wiper cover. I unplugged the connector I had moved at the heater control valve and searched the wire plug with a continuity meter on beep mode. I noticed the white wire pin was shorter than the other male pins and that the female part of this lead was slightly deformed with the connector having the metal appearance like butt cheeks for lack of a better way to describe. I took a dental tool and worked on the female side and used forceps to pull up the male part even with the height of the other pins and injected a hair of dielectric grease in just that female port and cleaned off the excess with alcohol. I tested the car and cleared the light with my Autoxray and upon the second crank NO ENGINE LIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!. I took the car out for a test and stopped and started multiple times and it is fixed. Off to the State Inspection tomorrow
2003 Saaab 9-5 Linear 2.3t 103K (hers)
1998 Saab NG900 2.0 turbo 136k (mine)
, Tue, 26 Dec 2006 08:47:19
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