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(Skip down to ***** if you don't want my life story)
Well, I bought a 2000 9-5 sedan last saturday with roughly 89K miles. The dealer had $8000 posted, but I bought it for $4950 in immaculate shape on the condition that the speedometer and odometer did not function. Just as well, the ABS and Brake warning lights were on, TCS OFF was lit on the panel, and Cruise control did not function. I did a little research and decided it was worth it to talk them down on the price, making the problem seem like a big deal that the SAAB dealership would have to take care of, and would charge a ton for (showed them quotes of people who were quoted $2000+). Well, I got the price down, and it ran like a dream. Started up after less than a second of starter crank, suspension and brakes were great. I was sold on the car even before I found that little S button on the shifter... anyway...
Sunday, less than 24 hours after sale (As-is, no warranty by the way...) I was driving to my sister's house; normal driving, I wasn't being rough on the engine or anything. I was just about to take my foot off the gas to start braking for a stop sign, and I noticed there was almost no throttle response. Right after I realized this, I heard a "bing!" from the computer in the car, and I believe the CEL came on. I brought to car to a stop at the sign, and tried to accelerate to the parking lot 100 ft up the road. It was VERY sluggish. I assume this was limp-home mode. I had just read the manual earlier that day, and it said that sometimes (as in a transmission problem) if you shut off the car and restart it, it will de-activate LHM but they recommend bringing it to a shop ASAP. I tried to restart, and nothing. After several attempted cranks on the starter, all I got was an intermittent "thump" from a cylinder firing, but these were few and far between. My sister helped me push the car out of the way, and I came back the next day. It started right up. It idled VERY roughly though, and the CEL was on. I tried to listen for valves clacking or symptoms of timing being off (my standard approach to rough idles, I'm used to DOHC Nissan engines) but it was difficult to pinpoint any one thing from sound alone. I cut it off to avoid damaging the engine just in case. I checked the oil, and the level was fine, but it could use a change. After I cut it off, I could not get it to restart. The next day I came back, started it up, it ran for 3-4 solid seconds and then stalled out. I have not been able to try to start it since because the battery was near drained after the 3rd day in the lot of just starter with no alternator recharging.
Now that I think about it, of the 11 (yes I counted) times that I started it BEFORE it died, the time it took to start the engine took increasingly longer. The same time it went into LHM, the starter cranked for 5-6 (aggravating) seconds before the engine caught.
*****
I know I need my ABS module rebuilt, I've already got that worked out... however...
I need to get the engine working before I worry about a speedometer or ABS/TCS/CC/odometer. I do not feel it is a problem with either of the DIC units because I had spark, the engine fired a few times even when it wouldnt start (I would say 2-3 fires for a 10 second crank). The throttle body could also be a problem because the engine smells flooded every time I try to start it. Then again, the CPS would do that too, as longa s the cylinders aren't firing...
Any words of advice? Swedecar? =)
posted by 24.127.95...
, Thu, 22 Mar 2007 10:26:32
, Thu, 22 Mar 2007 10:20:50
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