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Some ideas.... Posted by Herb Hirsch [Email]  (#114)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Herb Hirsch) on Sun, 3 Jun 2007 17:51:04
In Reply to: Working my way through my list, PhilD, Sun, 3 Jun 2007 07:55:28 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Phil:
I have a 2000 Aero with 272K miles which I bought new in Oct 1999. I've listed below some things to look at that may or may not need attention based upon the mileage AND the age of your car.
1. Replace the thermostat if your going to replace the coolant.
2. Struts and shocks may be nearing the end of their usefull life unless they've already been replaced.
3. Look in the area on the bottom of the compressor (lay under the car to do this) for signs of leaking coolant. This would indicate that the waterpump is heading south. My first one went at 80K miles; the second one is still dry as a bone.
4. Look at the flexible exhaust coupling. Generally, listening for any exhaust system leaks. Exhaust system life is inversly proportional to how much the car is driven. Your car was driven very little over 7 years.
5. Watch the coolant level for signs of coolant loss. If so, head bolt or heater valve replacement may beindicated.
6. Research and VERIFY that the serpentine belt and pulley were replaced at 60K miles. If not not, replace now or be prepared for a breakdown at an inconvenient time/place. Because the serpentine belt drives the water pump you will not be able to drive the car. Symptoms are loss of power steering and the alternator light at the same time.
7. Replace the fuel filter if there is any question whether it was done at 60K miles. Easy DIY. eEuroparts is a good source (free shipping if you spend more than $39.00).
8. Inspect the condition of the rubber cone-shapped covers at the end of the emergency brake cable on both sides. This will become a problem when the outside temperature drops well below freezing this winter; then, the cable will freeze due to water in the cable....and the car won't move. This is not an uncommon problem. Replacement of the cable is a DIY...much more enjoyable in the summer than the winter.
9. Have someone (or borrow one from AutoZone) run a test for fault codes through the OBDII port (under the steering column. Write down the codes that appear (if any); then, clear them all. Do this again in a month or two; this will give you an inkling of things that may be failing.
10. Add an oil pressure gauge. It's a little work but it allows you to monitor the oil pressure and verify that it's within spec. I did this; most owners do not. My rationale is that the oil pressure light only serves to announce that your engine has already failed catastrophically; it goes on when oil pressure drops below 6-8 psi. At 2,000 RPM oil pressure should be 35-40 PSI, not 6! At idle it should range between 15-22 PSI. Even if you don't install a gauge a test will tell you where you are.
In conclusion... the above reflects my thoughts; others may disagree or add to the list. Perhaps not obvious....my focus would be on the cooling and engine lubrication systems; weakness or failure in either area can lead to catastrophic and very expensive failue of the engine. On a positive note...your Aero can esily go another 100K-200K miles...with the kind of care you're already providing.
posted by 152.163.10...
, Sun, 3 Jun 2007 17:51:04 <-- Viewing This Message
, Sun, 3 Jun 2007 19:41:57, Sun, 3 Jun 2007 21:19:30
, Sun, 3 Jun 2007 14:59:20
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