1999-2009 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
I recently did most of what you ask about except tie rod ends. At 170K miles I guessed that the front struts were shot - proved to be true. I went with Bilstein HD's; some prefer the Bilstein Sport or Koni's. Since I've got the 1999 SE 2.3lpt and am not the primary driver we went for firm but comfortable.
Since your WIS is not operative, check the FIXMYSAAB website where Jeff shows most of what to do and lists torque specs for his model year. Another site with pictures and good commentary is Platonoff's (Google these and you will find them).
Parts (my list): Struts-Bilstein HD's, Ball Joints-Moog, Sway bar links-Febi, Rr lower arm bush-Lemforder, Strut bellows-ScanTech(quality okay), Strut Mount kits-Scan Tech(quality okay). I did not replace front lower arm bushes. I am watchful about ScanTech parts - they source globally and some of their parts have worn badly for me or others, but sometimes they are pretty good - the mount kits were on the good side for me, but in hindsight I would only replace the Strut Bearings, since everything else was reusable - and Bilstein Front struts don't/can't use the SAAB bump stop (built in).
Tools: Be sure your 1/2" socket set(s) include 18mm - some impact sets skip this size (how do I know?). Gear wrenches of some brand will prove very useful. You will want a good breaker bar for loosening bolts on the lower arm and the struts - I used that before the impact wrench on the lower arm.
Your big electric impact will probably fit the lower strut bolts. It will not fit very well for the sway bar link rear facing nut. Use Liquid Wrench (LW) or 50/50 transmission fluid/acetone a day before the job. At least I could remove all four nuts because those links have a flat to hold with a second wrench (unlike my Acura). The Febi links I installed also have that flat.
Comment on what I didn't see elsewhere: Removal of the lower arm rear bolts may be hard even with the LW. Expect that the lower arm bushing inner sleeve will have rusted to the threaded shaft of the arm, so apply more LW. It may require putting the nut back on loosely and applying pressure with a puller to the outer shell of the bushing while you pry/hammer on the center metal sleeve inside the rubber. With tension from the puller and impacts to that inner sleeve that extends beyond the rubber it will eventually come loose. This was a major addition of time for me to figure out what I was going to do.
Tip on installing ball joint - the edges of the lower arm ar sharp and can cut your ball joint boot if you are not carefull. Fit the three ball joint bolt/nuts onto the lower arm before worrying whether the ball joint is positioned just right in the spindle.
Good luck on the project.
Mark in Marine (MN)
P.S. If you like, substitute Power Blaster (PB) for every "LW".
posted by 74.46.227...
, Mon, 4 Jul 2011 18:57:10
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
