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Search this BB for drs<underscore>install and find my brake work posts.
The one for replacing the front pads should cover everything but the main caliper carrier to hub bolt head sizes.
Do the same search on the NG900 BB to see a description of the complete front work. Its the same style caliper.
Note that the factory does from time to time change bolt heads from one of [torx|hex head|hex cap screw] to something else. So you need to check things yourself if you do not have the same model year as cited in someone's description. I have a slide type caliper that is my companion for such work. Measure then find the socket instead of taking so many sockets to the job. For a big job I will survey the sizes and then go purchase what I need. Check the service info pages at genuinesaab.com for torques for the caliper bolts.
And note whats said about the screw that indexes the rotor. It you can't remove it, you can't do the job. So make sure that you can get it out before expending effort on other things. It can be torx or hex and in dim light its hard to tell. It is a counter sunk type screw, which means that the torx|head indent is shallow. The torx bits are forged and the tips can had too much of a radius. That does not leave enough metal for engagement. So the screw can be stripped. Clean out the indent with a pick if needed. Use a bit only, not a key type tool. Key type tools are not as hard and will twist and the that deformation makes the tool cam itself out of the indent which trashes the screw. Sometimes a forged bit needs to be ground or filed to create a sharp[er] end. And the tool can be driven into the screw's indent with a hammer to fully seat it. While some oil or penetrating oil is sometimes needed on the screw, you do not want any lubricant where the bit goes if possible. If the screws indent gets messed up, you can try to close it in with a ball peen hammer or such. Then take the bit and drive it into the closed in indent to forge anew. That can work quite well, but a new screw should be secured after that operation. The index screw only serves to get the holes in the rotor aligned or indexed with those of the hub, and at the rear, aligns the larger holes to allow p-brake star wheel access. Once the wheels are bolted up, the indexing screw serves no mechanical or structural function. So leave it barely tight and bedded in neversieze. Whenever you get a vehile, new or used, remove it and bed lightly in neversieze. And put neversieze on the hub projection where the wheel and rotor seat.
If the carrier to hub bolts are hard to access with a wrench because the caliper is in the way, the caliper can be removed via the two slider bolts. Note that the pads can often be replaced by removing the caliper complete and the pads can then be fitted with the slider bolts left where they are. Not really as simple as it sounds.
The outboard tensioner spring is tricky to replace at best. Complete one side first so the other is a visual reference to refit the spring.
posted by 66.142.223...
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