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Version #1 is tougher to eyeball.... Posted by Mi-Roger [Email] ![]() ![]() In Reply to: Re: Easiest way to tell if PCV work was done...., Jeremy, Tue, 23 Nov 2004 04:35:08 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Version #1 involved increasing the diameter of two orifices by drilling them out. The orifice on the oil trap was to be increased to 5mm (originally 3.5mm or something in that range). You have to get under the car and remove the oil trap to inspect the orifice size.
It also specified increasing the size of the bore of the small barb fitting on the bottom of the PCV fitting (the one going into the valve cover) to 2.5mm. You can probably pull this part off without tools to inspect it and probe with a drill bit which matches 2.5mm in size, ~3/32 inch.
But Version #2 is the currently recommended repair so I wouldn't worry whether or not Version #1 was performed. These changes were recommended to prevent excessive internal engine cranckcase pressures. Too great of pressure can cause oil leaks past the engine seals. My past experience with industrial pumps has been that once a non-adjustable seal starts to weep, it needs to be replaced. That is why I consider this to be a preventive measure - one you want to do before the oil leakage starts.
posted by 198.208.22...
_______________________________________ Saabs owned: 2008 9-5 Aero Sedan, sold at 227K miles 2006 9-3SC 2.0T - Wife's daily driver 2000 Viggen Convertible - Sold May, 2022 1964 Quantum IV Formula Car - Retirement project 2000 9-5lpt Sedan, sold at 318K miles
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