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1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
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87 900 CVT
Last 2 months, suddenly will go dead, engine stops, tach to zero.
Sometimes will come back, stutter, tach goes immediatly from running rpm to zero and back as the engine starts and stops.
Wiggling the wiring harness, hall effects sensor lead, where it comes across the top of the radiator will duplicate the symptoms. The harness is held secure at the left edge of radiator and past the coil by wire ties.The problem finally stopped being intermittent and the car died and would not restart. Pulled it home (5 miles) and recharged the battery and it would start and run 3-5 sec and die. Each restart it would run for a shorter period, and after 5 or 6 times wouldn't run at all.
I took things apart, did all the checks,and everything was OK.
Good continuity thru wires no matter how I wiggled or twisted, proper voltage and drop at coil, proper voltages at 3 and 6 at controller with sensor open or closed.
I put everything back together, and it started and ran great.
This started a few weeks after a minor tuneup (routine; cap, wires, plugs)
Thinking about what I had connected or disconnected in the garage that I hadn't done alongside the road and the only thing that came to mind was disconnecting the coil lead, to get the dist cap far enough out of the way to see the hall effects transmitter. Checked the coil wire for continuity and the resistance was 1550 ohms. I had checked it before install and it was just under 1000 ohms. I put the "old"coil wire back on (the one I had replaced a few months ago) and have been driving a day with no problems. Wiggling the harness no longer has any effect.
THE BIG QUESTION: Has anyone had this problem, and does anyone out there know if a bad (intermittant) coil-to-center-of-dist wire would drop the tack instantly to zero even if the engine was still turning but not running? It appears the tach works off the ignition pulse amplifier, so would this signal still be present?
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