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What you suggest may be safe, or may not...
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Posted by Aaron Gilbert [Email] (more from Aaron Gilbert) on Mon, 13 Aug 2001 17:58:44 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: amperage draw on passenger side distribution block...(long), kooch, Mon, 13 Aug 2001 15:29:57
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The amount of current drawn through your distribution block should be equal to the total load of the electrical system, not counting the charging current/starting current which will run through the main large cable. This total load obviously cannot for any length of time exceed the output capacity of the alternator, which I think should be the same in your car as in mine, 80 amps. Sure, if you add up all the loads you could have - stereo, rear window defrost, wipers, high beams, A/C blower on high, engine cooling fan(s) on, etc, you will likely come out over 80A. Fortunately the reality is you are rarely going to be running everything on full blast at the same time. Anyhoo..

8 gauge is mighty small to pass 80A through on a 10 foot + run that you will probably have. According to PPI, one of our premier car audio amplifier brands, a 10-13 foot run carring 65-85 amps should be no smaller than four gauge. Of course it's always better to err on the side of two large, that extra weight won't hurt you on the dyno, just on the road. :)

If you want to get real technical, you can give me the length of your wire run, and we can calculate the resistance per foot, then assuming a maximum continuous current draw (probably unlikely for more than brief moments in actual day to day use), we can calculate the wattage being dissipated by the wire itself, as well as the voltage drop. It's tricky to splice 8 gauge or larger wires together properly. I'm sure it can be done with the right giant butt connectors and industrial press (Vice-grips work pretty well, too), though the best way would seem to be a distribution block, pricey compared to just buying bigger cable to begin with.


Aaron Gilbert
1987 9000T 262k miles - if I had a nickel for every time I've rewired...





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