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Re: Rust woes... (longish) Posted by DougM [Email]  (#211)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from DougM) on Wed, 26 Sep 2001 00:35:12
In Reply to: Rust woes... (longish), Tim B., Tue, 25 Sep 2001 22:09:37 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
You can grind it and fill it if you plan on selling the car, but if you plan on keeping it long term, that's not the way to go.
You are right when you say it is labor intensive. I've done alot of Ohio rust repairs on Saabs and other cars. The proper process requires alot of tools and supplies which you probably don't own. For example-grinders, sand blaster, air compressor, air tools, spray gun, welder, fiberglas bondo, regular bondo, primer, paint, etc. Paint and materials are expensive now-a-days. Proper repairs are best left to the pros, if you want to be happy with the job. Remember, though, the pros aren't cheap.
You can get a rust out repair panel for the fenders from a dealer, but then you have to pop rivet or weld it on. It's an art to do rust repairs that will last along time and being that you live in Maine, eventually the rust will come back.
You can't stop rust, you can only slow it down.
Also, if you have rust on the outside of the hood near the decals, then I bet you have major rust on the inside of the hood as well. Rust on the outside means that there are holes already. Poke at the rust and you will see that there are holes. The best repair would be to metal patch these areas, which is again, labor intensive.
posted by 24.51.7...
, Wed, 26 Sep 2001 00:35:12 <-- Viewing This Message
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