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The problem lies in the coolant the factory chose to use, the materials they used to design the parts, and the block they decided to use.
1.) The coolant was to corrosive for the material they chose to design the parts. If no extreme pitting has occurred, you can switch to a more alloy friendly coolant such as one earlier Mercedes and VW use in their or w/ extreme flushing switch to Dexacool.
2.) The cylinder block which was used for 2.1L was an overbored 2.0L. I have talked to a mechanic who has said he has seen a few cases of the metal between pistons concaving and creating a bad mating service for the cylinderhead. It is probably due to the lack of metal to absorb heat and overheating.
I believe you should use a 2.1L headgasket for a 2.1 b/c of the bore diameter. The 2.0L will have a smaller bore diameter. The newer headgaskets are designed nicer than the old but the newer designed 2.0L are no different of a design than the the newer 2.1L headgaskets.
The biggest thing about buying a 2.1L is catching problem before it causes damage. You want to find out what coolant has been used in the car, if the headgasket was ever changed, if it overheats, the existing compression, and how many miles. I would suggest finding one with less than 90K that doesn't overheat, has good compression and never has had the headgasket changed, and if it uses regular coolant then 1st thing have the headgasket changed and flush the existing coolant to a better alloy friendly coolant w/ a new thermostat and fan switch(82/89 combo).
If your looking for a SAAB that is strong, reliable and less maintenance than a turbo, then a 2.1L can be a good car if worked out right. The 2.1L has some perks:
LH2.4.2
2.1L w/ more hp than 2.0L NA
Usually very luxurious w/ leather and full addons
posted by 4.40.3...
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