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A couple of possiblities...
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Posted by Micah in NC [Email] (more from Micah in NC) on Mon, 19 Aug 2002 11:29:44 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: overheating - thermos - radiator?, Matt W, Mon, 19 Aug 2002 10:52:50
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Matt,
There are a few things which could go wrong here, but first I'll answer your hose question. You wrote:

"Another note, concerning the hoses that come off of the readiator. There are two, between them in a metal contraption that looks very old, what is it, is it the thermostat, if not what is it, and where is the thermostat."
>>>This 'metal contraption' is the tube which houses the air conditioner cut-off (or 'cut-out'). It is designed to turn off the A/C--which adds excess heat to a hot engine--at or about 238° F, if I remember correctly.

Some possible causes of overheating:
1) A thermostat will age and can "bind" in its travel, sometimes opening at the correct temperature, sometimes not = t-stat stuck closed some or all of the time, when it should be open. This would keep hot engine coolant from flowing through the top radiator hose into the radiator, making the engine overheat. Thermostat is in the dome-shaped metal casting which the top radiator hose connects to on the engine. [See photo on my webpage, link below.]

2) Radiator is old and cooling coils are clogged up = less effective cooling due to slow, restricted flow of coolant, rendering radiator unable to keep up with hot temps and little or no airflow (stop & go traffic). [Replace radiator.]

3) Radiator cooling fan thermoswitch is on its way out = does not turn cooling fans on, which doesn't help out radiator in low airflow (low speed) situations, making engine overheat in stop & go traffic. [Check fans by pulling off the two wires off the thermoswitch--located near top of left (driver's side) of radiator--and then short them together by touching them together. It's OK, that's what the thermoswitch does. If one or both fans run, suspect thermoswitch or timer relay. Some models have fan timer relay to allow fans to run after ignition is switched off, up to 10 minutes after ignition if OFF. Early models have this relay in engine bay next to driver's side headlight, clipped to fender wall. Later models have this relay in the fusebox. However, if you've seen the fans run recently, then problem is most likely elsewhere = thermostat or rad.]

4) Reservoir cap not installed tightly enough OR cap not holding system at correct pressure--like a pressure cooker--(to keep coolant mix from boiling over), resulting in inefficient cooling system. Have a parts store like Advance or a garage test the cooling system AND CAP up to 15-17 psi.

For starters, I'd check the fans' operation, but thermostat is most likely the culprit. See my webpage link (first photo) to locate the thermostat. It's housing has a bleeder screw sticking out of it. Housing is held on by 2 bolts. SEE TOM TOWNSEND'S WEBPAGE FOR BETTER INFO ON THAT! = http://216.78.172.244/cooling_system_folder/thermostatreplacement.htm

I hope this helps!

Micah in NC
'84 900S, 219K mi.

posted by 216.77.232...

Click here for a photo of the t-stat on my webpage.


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