1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
The joys of sorting a car.
1) Find short in ABS system. It's a hot circuit that's shorted to ground somewhere, probably not an open ground. You did not mention a problem with power braking. If none, the pump should not be the source of the problem. Get a manual and go through the trouble shooting sequence and wiring diagram with a meter. I do not know of a short cut.
2)SRS might just be a broken spool in the wheel or a bad sensor. Air bag is probably fine. As Terry said, have it hooked up to tester. If it's the wire spool in the wheel, you can replace this yourself. Remove air bag (torx screws on back of wheel and electrical plug) and steering wheel 22mm nut. Spool is behind the wheel. Don't worry about setting off the bag as long as the ignition is off(better to disconnect battery).
3) Seat cover. Remove seat, unbolt and remove seat back, flip seat bottom over, remove springs to metal ring in cover, remove clips around perimeter, peel back cover around sides and lift off. If the ring cloth channel has torn, you can have the shop just sew in a heavy strip of corded cloth between the outside and center potion of the seat cover. Hook the springs directly into this material and toss the hoop.
4) Power steering often hisses. Flushing the system with fresh fluid sometimes will stop the hissing. You can flush by removing the resevoir and hooking the return line to a hose into a bucket(plug nipple on tank). Have a helper run the engine briefly as you pour fluid into the resevoir until the fluid comes out clean. Leaks are common at the resevoir hose connections and the large feed hose from resevoir to pump. This hose gets hard as a rock and leaks at the pump. You can try to stop leak by doubling hose clamps, but usually it's better to just replace the hose. If rack is leaking at spindle, replce the rack witha rebuilt one. It's not worth trouble of pulling rack to replace spindle seal. Make sure all three bolts are holding the P/S pump to its bracket(accessed through the holes in the pulley). Other non-P/S leakers include the main crankshaft seal behind the crank pulley, the valve cover gasket, and the oil pump seal and o-ring. Also look for drips out the flywheel inspection hole for signs of the other crank seal leaking.
5)Fuel gauge problem might be as simple as tightening the 4 mm nut on the back of the gauge to restore the ground. You can do this through the driver's side speaker hole. A small mirror helps you see what you are doing. If that doesn't restore function, check the wiring at the fuel sender under the rear hatch floor board. there are two hole covers, the left is the pump and the right is the sender. If you connect the gauge wires together and the gauge jumps to full, replace the sender in the tank.
6) Alternator problem could be bad brushes. Easiest to replace regulator, which comes with new brushes. Before you try a new regualtor, make sure the short black ground wire from the alternator frame to the block is good. Clean all grounds and battery cables. Battery voltage when car is running should be close to 14 volts.
posted by 216.75.9...
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