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, Mon, 23 Dec 2002 14:14:58
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The work itself is pretty straightforward, given your experience, you should not have a problem, it just takes time. There are a couple of gotchas. By far, one of the worst parts is getting the taper pin out - if its stuck you're in for hell. Consider sawing it in half if it gives you trouble, don't bang on it too much or the shifter shaft seal could be damaged. Getting the cable disconnected from the automatic transmission can also be difficult - ignore what the shop manual says - the shifter must be in "1" or it ain't coming out! Other than that, the usual Saab-isms: put the clutch spacer tool in before you disconnect clutch hydraulics, put spacers in the a-arms before putting the car on stands. Use liberal amounts of Loctite 518 (Permatex #51803) on any surface that has a gasket. Use Teflon tape on threads that seal fluids (oil cooler lines etc) Use red threadlock on things like flywheel bolts, slave cylinder bolts. Clean all threads with a wire-wheel before re-install. Use a good torque wrench - torque is important. As for shifter alignment, the standard procedure has always worked well for me. Don't forget that this is a good time to renew alternator bushings and upper control arm bushings...
The biggest enemy in this project is... yourself! Never assume you will know how something goes back together... document everything! A good philosophy is to assume that someone else will be reassembling the car and you need to provide instructions. Before you even remove the battery start snapping pictures. The starter motor wiring and the area around the intake manifold are good subjects but I tend to photograph everything I can point the camera at. Use a whole roll of film, fill up the memory stick, whatever - you will thank yourself later. I also like to use a clipboard with steps from the Bentley on it so I can chart my progress. Spend a half-hour copying every engine-removal step from the Bentley onto the clipboard and number every step. Then check them off as you go. I also use self-stick labels and number every single part - one label on the removed part, one label where it went - both labels have the same number so there is no guesswork as to where this part goes. Use labeled zip-lock baggies for loose stuff, large boxes for big stuff. For bolts that have to go in a specific order (like the engine-to-trans bolts) I like to use a piece of old styrofoam. Use a marker to draw a rough outline of the part on the styrofoam, then stick the bolts into thier respective places on the styrofoam outline as they are removed. This way, when you are ready to reassemble, the proper bolts all go in thier proper original places - no lost bolts or bolts going in the wrong hole. If you feel uneasy about taking something apart snap pictures of it or draw a diagram - always leave yourself a trail of breadcrumbs! Sound too geeky? The TSN archives are littered with posts from people who thought they would remember how it went back together - take a look for yourself. My '84T started right up the first time I turned the key, no leftover bolts and everything worked properly.
Good luck.
- Mark
1985 SPG
1984 900T
1978 99T
posted by 12.144.1...
, Mon, 23 Dec 2002 14:14:58
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