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ETS / AMM Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Wed, 2 Apr 2003 07:42:09
In Reply to: Re: Still won't run cold, tom, Tue, 1 Apr 2003 17:35:49 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
There is an engine temperature Sensor, which is a variable resistor. The resistance varies with engine temp. It isn't a switch. It's sometimes called the NTC sensor, which stands for Negative Temperature Coefficient. This only means that it's a sensor whose resistance drops with increasing temperature.
In your year, the should have an adjusting screw in the side of the AMM. The AMM measure airflow. The AMM and O2 sensor together set the fuel flow. The AMM is the 'coarse' adjustment, and the O2 sensor is the 'fine' adjust. For the system to work, the AMM must be adjusted to get into the range of the O2 sensor.
Rebuilt AMMs usually come from the factory set to 380 ohms ( a measurement across two pins, adjusted by the screw). This is a 'typical' setting for most cars that will at least let them idle. You then either use a meter on the O2 sensor, or on the test connector, and adjust the AMM until the O2 sensor is in range.
Do a search for 'adjust AMM' on both this and the 9000 board.
If the AMM isn't set right, you can be running way too rich or way too lean. As said, the AMM works with the O2 sensor to set fuel mixture. But O2 sensors don't work until they warm up. Your O2 sensor Should be a three wire sensor with a built-in heater. That heats it up sooner, but it usually takes at least 2 minutes for the O2 sensor to come on-line. Until then, it's up to the AMM to set fuel flow. Set wrong, and the car will idle like crap.
posted by 192.249....
, Tue, 1 Apr 2003 17:08:49, Wed, 2 Apr 2003 07:42:09 <-- Viewing This Message, Thu, 3 Apr 2003 13:42:22
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