 |
|
|
1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
 | [Main C900 Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Prev by Date | Next by Date | Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
Re: Help!!! Do I need a new clutch master cylinder? Posted by RS [Email]  (#15)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from RS) on Mon, 21 Apr 2003 10:45:14
In Reply to: Help!!! Do I need a new clutch master cylinder?, Micah in NC, Mon, 21 Apr 2003 09:22:29 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
When it's unpredicatable like that, the MC has started on its way out. You might be able to bleed it and get some more time out of it, but it will do things to you at the least opportune time.
Just having done this yesterday (and having babied the thing through progressing failure modes), I'd say bite the bullet and replace it or rebuild it.
My guess is that the pop you're feeling is because the hole in the yoke on the end of the shaft is elongated and there's a spot on it that catches ... or there's a lip worn in the cylinder that the rear seal retainer on the piston catches.
My guess is that the dampness you see might be a combination of the silicone lube that is put on the shaft-to-piston joint and some minor weepage past the rear seal. (You'll see if you take it apart.)
I dissected a few clutch master cylinders this weekend and saw a bunch of different failure modes.
If you are very lucky (and the owner of the car that was junked was not), you can find an almost new master cylinder at a pick-n-pull. The one I got was out of a car that, other than having a bad interior, had a lot of money put into it recently. The last straw may have been that the clutch didn't work well, even after a new MC - the clevis pin hole was elongated to something like 1/2".
A lot of the ones I saw had elongated holes in the yoke on the end of the shaft causing some extra slop in the pedal. You may want to consider a new one from one of the sponsors.
You'll want to remove the lower dash to be able to access the clevis pin and easily get to the nuts on the MC, so be mindful of that.
The area around the MC is tight, so be prepared to move the coolant reservoir and loosen the alternator to swing it out of the way to get some clearance.
When you do it, have several bottles of brake fluid on hand. I filled a 12 Oz. soda can bleeding it. (Mmmmmm. New, thicker Mountain Dew)
posted by 66.21.16...
, Mon, 21 Apr 2003 10:45:14 <-- Viewing This Message
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
