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1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
...petroleum jelly.
as for changing the bushings, here's what i did cuz i don't have a press:
1. go to home depot and get a short piece of coupling pipe from their plumbing department. bring a bushing with you to size it up - you want the bushing to just NOT quite fit in the coupling - the closest, proper, size will be a hair too small. you'll fix this later...
2. go to their power tools department and pick up a stone grinding bit for a drill (you're going to be grinding the coupling threads smooth).
3. go to their nuts/bolts department and buy a couple large, long bolts, nuts, and the fattest, widest washers you can find. the bolts should fit through the bushing and be long enough so you can thread a washer & nut through both the coupling and the bushing.
---> buy several nuts/bolts because you run the risk of stripping them - they aren't that tough for the intense pressures you'll be exerting on the threads.
4. back at home, grind out the threads on one end of the pipe coupling. ideally, use a drill press. the coupling gets really hot and this job takes a while; be patient. when you're done, the coupling will now have an inner diameter that is large enough to accommodate a bushing. test it out to be sure it slides in easily.
5. remove an a-arm/brackets.
---> with a utility knife, trim off as much of the bushing flange on the side that will be pulled through the bracket.
6. place the coupling against the bushing in the bracket, thread a bolt through, then a washer, then a nut. now, slowly tighten the bolt, which will pull the bushing out of the bracket and into the coupling.
---> BE CAREFUL NOT TO SCORE THE BRACKET INNER SURFACE
---> this takes a while and requires some creativity. when you have tightened the nut down as far as it will go, remove it and take up some of the slack in the bolt by threading in some sockets and/or wrenches. keep doing this until the bushing goes far enough into the coupling that you can basically pull it out the rest of the way.
Installing the new bushing (as Walt mentions, use Boge; they are oem):
7. get some dish soap & water & get the bracket & new bushing wet. place the bushing on one side of the bracket and the coupling on the other. attach it all with a long bolt, nut & washer. now, just as you pulled the old bushing out, you'll pull the new one in. the trick is to keep it going in as straight as possible. do not be nervous when the bushing pops out on the other side in a quite different shape then how it went in; this is as it should be.
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this is all easier said than done. grinding the coupler threads took me a while (i used a drill press). it was the best solution i could come up with at the time. getting the bushings out requires some swearing; it takes a while. getting the new ones in is easier because you have some lube. my guess is that you don't want to slather the bushing with soap; i used as little as possible - mostly water - & kept adding more as it evaporated.
bentley illustration notes a very accurate bracket angle when re-fitting to the a-arm. i believe it was Anders who posted to me not to worry about this too much, as the a-arm will settle in to the proper angle once re-installed.
when you have all of these suspension bits apart, now is a good time to inspect your cv boots - i discovered a bad one while doing the a-arms.
also, check the two small bolts that hold the side motor mount brackets to the car body. mine have loosened on the driver side, which causes a periodic clunking when starting, turning, & driving in reverse.
posted by 128.95.202...
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