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You can deal with the knock sensor intrusion, by going to a 3.0 FPR, increasing spark retard under boost, or readjusting the APC box. The 3.0 fpr is cheap, rest are free. I'm assuming that you are only using premium fuel.
I think you have turned up the P pot too much and are getting boost overrun. With your F pot at 6 o'clock, you should be able to hold about 1/4 red boost without the annoying knock sensor pauses. By trial and error, bump the P pot back a little at a time until your boost smoothly increases to the max set by the F pot. Or turn the P back to stock and gradually bump it up until you just see boost running past the max.
If you only max out the boost when you need it, your rebuilt trans should be OK. Constant WOT max boost driving can destroy the pinion bearing in a few months to a year.
The other thing to address is your base boost setting, since the wastegate controller spring gradually weakens and should be readjusted every few years. You need to borrow a calibrated gauge and tee it into a line under the hood so you can see the boost while you are driving. Unplug the APC solenoid (up near the coil) and you will be limited to base boost. If the base boost hasn't been set in awhile, I'll bet your only at 3-4 psi. If you adjust(shorten) the wastegate control rod, you should set the base boost to between 5-6psi. This simple change will give you much faster spool up.
You can also increase spark retard under boost by slight bending or filing a small amount off the spark retard limit/stop on the distributor advance/retard module. You only really need to do this if you want to boost deeper into the red.
Regarding the shift crunch, the problem might be a bad pilot bearing in the center of the flyheel or lack of lubrication on your clutch shaft splines. If you also get a crunch, when you shift into reverse, this is definitely an issue. If no crunch in reverse, then you might try some honda or redline mtl.
posted by 216.75.9...
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