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It turns out that it IS NOT necessary to get the spacer ring in the old pressure plate if you're going to separate the engine and transmission. All that was necessary (in my case) was to unbolt the slave cylinder(3 allen bolts) and remove the clutch input shaft. Then when I lifted the engine off of the transmission the two came apart (of course a little persuasion was necessary).
First:
(1) I borrowed a beautiful electric impact wrench for the job. It is a wonderful tool! I now can't imagine doing ball joints without it. I had the flywheel off in about 45 seconds.
Now some questions
(2) In previous repairs I have reused old bolts. I find this much easier than going to the hardware store and poking throuh the metric bins, searching for proper tread pitch and length. Can I reuse bolts that I've taken off with an impact wrench? Can I reuse bolkts at all? The Haynes manual seems quite emphatic about the need to always use new fastners. In the case of nylon nuts I'm convinced - In other cases I am not so. Is there a place where I can order all the bolts at once rather than poking through a hardware store bin? The site sponsors seem to provide this service in a half-hearted way.
(3) I think the clutch disc is toast. I plan to replace it and the pressure plate before the car is back together. I assume this is much easier once the engine and new transmission are rejoined? When should the flywheel be resurfaced? I assume that any competent machine shop can do this and also press in a new input shaft bearing? I am thinking about the AP disc and pressure plate, opinions?
(4) When I removed the harmonic balancer I noticed that the rubber ring facing the engine had radially oriented cracks in it. I probably should replace this? Do I need to buy a new crankshaft bolt? I notice that eeuroparts sells one for $65 and thesaabsite sells another for $150 - any difference between the two?
(5) What's the proper way to remove the two crankshaft seals? I was thinking about a needle nose pliers.
thanks all!
posted by 134.84.252...
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