1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
I got a new chain with an open link. Took off the valve cover. Pulled the spark plugs (no compression that way). Put a piece of cloth in the opening behind the chain. Broke the old chain, with a screwdriver, I think. (you may find more decent ways) Then I attached the open chain to one end of the broken chain. I made sure there was no extra camwheel tooth open, between the old and the new chain. I don't think it makes a difference, because what is important is that the camshaft doesn't change versus the crankshaft. The timing chain connects the both.
Then I used tiewraps - that's what we call them here in Holland, the little plastic fasteners you sort of zip up - to keep both ends of the chain to the camwheel.
Now if you look at the camshaft, there is a six-sided piece somewhere in the middle, I think between cylinders 2 and 3. You can put a wrench size 32 on that, so you can turn the camshaft. I'm not sure about the size. So what you have at this point is a setup where you have a partially new and partially old timing chain fastened to the camwheel with four to six tiewraps. Now what you do is you turn the camshaft as far as it goes i.e. until you have to remove a tiewrap (I'll keep using that word, I hope it's correct). So then you remove that tiewrap, throw it away and put a new one on at the other end of the chain. This makes sure the chain is always attached to the camwheel and the crankshaft and camshaft stay in line.
To be sure, I think I used up about a hundred of these tiewraps, because you can take only a little turn at one time. But you just keep repeating the process until you have run through the whole chain.
That's basically it.
One thing you have to watch carefully is the timing chain tensioner. Due to the new chain being tighter (i.e. shorter) the tensioner will come under tension as more of the old chain comes out. You have to release that by tilting the little switch on top of the tensioner with something useful that you don't drop down the hole. Start in time with releasing the tension, it gets harder when it's under more load.
- Dropping anything in the hole behind the camwheel means taking out the engine!!!! -
If you have completed the process, you close the open link and put a little thingy on it that keeps it closed. Put it on with the closed end in the direction of the rotation of the engine. Just to be sure. A mechanic told me it wouldn't matter, but I'd like to be sure about it. So the closed end points to the left if you're standing in front of the engine.
Well, at this point you're virtually ready. The old chain is rolled out, the new one is in. The tensioner, which had a space of about 12 mm when you started, is almost closed. So you close the engine by putting the valve cover back on (preferably with a new 5$ gasket) and put in the spark plugs. Ready to roll.
One of the most satisfying jobs I ever did. You wouldn't believe the extra power I suddenly had!
The townsend site has a procedure for rolling in a new chain in a 16v. You might want to check that.
http://216.78.172.32/engine_folder/incarchainpg1.htm
Also make sure you can visualise the process before you start.
I've tried to be as complete as I could. Things can go wrong here and you do it at your own risk. If it works, it's a fantastic improvement on your car. If something goes wrong, you have a serious problem.
Good luck!
posted by 145.98.106...
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