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You mean you don't run the official startup process?
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Posted by Ari [Email] (#2847) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Ari) on Wed, 30 Jul 2003 07:59:53 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Instrument panel warning lights, davnport, Wed, 30 Jul 2003 05:45:11
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As we all do (ha ha ha).

Turn the key to ON, but don't start the car. You should see all the 'idiot' lights. This is the only way to know that they're working.

The Oil light should come on, because if the engine isn't turning, you've got no oil pressure. No light, then either the bulb, sensor, or wiring is bad.

With the engine off, the battery should be in the 12.6 volt range. I'm surprised it was higher. In order for the battery to charge, the alternator must put out a higher voltage than the battery, so that current flows INTO the battery (to charge it).

The BAT light is very interesting. In order for an alternator to work, it needs electrical current to magnetize the field coils. No current, no magnets, and the alternator will spin but not put current out. When you first turn the key to ON, battery current flows through the ignition, through the BAT light bulb, and to the field coils in the alternator. Since current is flowing (12+ volts at the battery, ground at the field coils, the light comes on. This current is critical to getting the alternator to work. If the bulb is burned out, or the wiring bad between the bulb and alternator open, the alternator won't work.

Once the engine starts and the alternator starts to spin, it takes over powering the field coils itself. Now there's 12 volts on both sides of the bulb, so the light goes out.

If you don't see the BAT light, the alternator won't work. You should also see the voltage at the battery increase when the engine is running. If you don't, but the BAT light circuit is working properly, the voltage regualtor may be on the way out and the alternator just isn't putting out enough juice.

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