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Re: master yoke
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Posted by JohnK (more from JohnK) on Sat, 29 Nov 2003 13:02:57 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: master yoke, thereuare, Sat, 29 Nov 2003 10:50:00
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While my memory may be off, I think the yoke is held against the piston with a spring and a cap/clip on the end of the master. So you probably can easily replace the yoke by itself. That's the good news. The bad news is that i don't think you can get the master out far enough to replace the yoke without removing the fitting to the fluid line that goes to the slave. If you try to pull the master out with the line attached, there is a chance that you will bend and crease the tubing. It's pretty stiff.

I think it's time to bite the bullet and learn how to bleed the clutch system. I am 100% confident that you can do it in 1/2 hour or less. All the hoopla about clutch bleeding is just that. I never had a problem using an old bicycle tube, hoseclamped to the top of the resevoir. Cut the tube about 1 foot on either side of the valve. Seal one end with whatever is available. 2 popsicle sticks squeezed with a visegrip works fine. Hook up a bike pump to the shrader valve and pump it enough so that the tube bulges to about 150% of its normal size. i figure that is about 10 lbs pressure, which is plenty. Crack the bleeder down at the slave. It also helps to depress the pedal a few times to get the juice flowing. Since the clutch takes so little fluid to bleed, the bike tube method will work fine. If you are going to bleed your brakes, i would invest in a $40 pressure bleeder tank or make one out of an old garden sprayer. The only problem with the bike tube method is that you have to pull the tube off the resevoir several times to refill the resevoir when flushing the brakes. If you ahve plenty of time, you can always use the gravity drip method that Steven Goldberger recommends. Just takes several hours.

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