1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
The real issue IMHO is the quality of the rebuilt calipers since there are no longer new calipers available. You MUST monitor the rotor temperature for the first 500-1000 miles or so because it's maybe 30-70 that one of the two calipers will seize or fail to retract thus dragging the pads and heating one rotor. It may be subtle at first or never happen. And SAVE that receipt...most rebuilts have some sort of warranty (one reason to take your time and get it from AutoZone or NAPA or somesuch rather than others) and you can get another one.
LOOK at the rebuilt caliper...it should have some type of shim or U-shaped piece of metal spot welded to the yoke where the yoke rubs against the caliper. If not, chances are the rebuilder thought (rightly or wrongly, you get to take the chance) the clearance was close enough that a shim wasn't needed....result is you get a clunk when you back up first thing and touch the brake to stop. Yes, you can bend the yoke return spring to take up some slop, but it doesn't work for long.
One more thing...the pads are pretty much critical to stopping good on these cars. You can fool around with Axxis metalmasters or deluxe pads (pretty good stuff, I've used them for 20 years but) or even the stock pads but the best I've seen is Hawk HPS which has just recently become available...awesome stopping power and less dust than stock, more than metalmaster. Dunno yet about rotor friendly (metalmaster or deluxe were good for 180K miles on my 84, somewhat less on the 87) but I just put new KVR slotted rotors on my 87 900T with the Hawk HPS pads and they work incredibly well. No more rear brake lockup first...fronts lockup first with relatively little pressure compared to stock...and easily modulated for threshold braking.
posted by 69.138.19...
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