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Re: altenator Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Tue, 8 Feb 2005 05:12:33
In Reply to: altenator, aldo, Mon, 7 Feb 2005 20:50:46 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I have no idea why you would disconnect the negative battery terminal. The battery presents a minimal and normal load on the alternator. If there were a significant short in the battery, it wouldn't be putting out more than 11 volts. The battery provides a certain amount of damping to the system, and it shouldn't be disconnected. And the engine electronics, and interior lights, fans, etc all load the alternator, as it should be.
I'd start with Gary's approach - but with a meter. Measure the voltage between body of the alternator to chassis ground. Measure from the output of the alternator (big red cable on the post) to the battery POST - not clamp. Measure between the negative POST and chassis ground. In no case should the voltage be more than 0.1 volts, preferably less. Why measure what should be across a wire? Because wires and connections fail. If you find more than 0.1 volts between the alternator case and chassis ground, the ground needs fixing. More than 0.1 volts between the alternator output and positive battery post, check the connections on the battery, and the battery cables - they can fail. If you peek into the insulation and see a bunch of white or green powder, that's corrosion in the cable. The same with the battery grounding.
Replacing the VR is always a good start. If it turns out not to fix it, then you've got a spare VR. But the brushes do wear over time. Wear down enough, and they also carbon up the commutator on the alternator. Both can cause a lack of alternator output. The fact that the voltage does increase when the engine is running means that the alternator is at least trying.
posted by 192.249....
, Tue, 8 Feb 2005 05:12:33 <-- Viewing This Message
, Mon, 7 Feb 2005 21:18:56
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