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Re: "89 900 S - cracked head? and short?
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Posted by RayF (more from RayF) on Wed, 23 Feb 2005 14:57:53 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: "89 900 S - cracked head? and short?, Sweede72, Wed, 23 Feb 2005 11:47:51
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2. The irregular idling sounds a lot like the "hunting idle" complaint that gets dealt with regularly here. I doubt it's related to your overheating but is probably ather the standard problem, that came on at about the same time. Cures reported include tracking down and fixing vacuum leaks, commonly by replacing rubber bushings where vacuum lines enter the intake manifold or at rubber fittings say at the charcoal canister; others like to replace all vacuum lines with silicone rubber tubing. But tracking and finding and fixing any leaks by selectively pulling off and plugging sections of the vacuum lines is the best recommendation. Others report curing problem by cleaning the internals of the AIC valve using carburetor cleaner. Others still say it has taken replacing the Air Mass Meter to cure it.
The rough running could be just a fluke or could be related to the above or something else entirely - - failing plug wires or moisture condensed in the distributor cap, say. Had it been cold, then warmer and damp just before the rough running incident?
I would assume everything BUT head gasket trouble first, till absolutely proved.
The foam on the oil cap could be from a little naturally occurring moisture condensing inside the oil sump, then, driven off by evaporation, condensing on the coolest spot, the underside of the oil fill cap.
Even if it is the beginnngs of a bad head gasket, some people on this bulletin board report years and tens or hundreds of thousands of miles of driving after a head gasket develops small seeps of coolant. Just keep an eye on coolant level and keep topping it up, unless it begins losing a lot or shows up as white exhaust.
1. As to your electrical drain problem, good luck. If the drain is coming from a fused part of the electrical system, you can track it to the particular fuse where it's happening by this:
Get an automotive test light (12 volt light bulb with test lead on each end).
With everything shut off, (including the interior light if the driver door is left open), disconnect the negatve battery cable and put one end of the test probe on the cable and the other end on the battery post. It should light up if there's a draw of current. Now have a helper begin pulling fuses, one at a time; starting with say the power window circuit since that's where you're simultaneously seeing some trouble.
If the light goes out, that's the circuit where the problem is. If it doesn't go out, replace that fuse and move on to the next.
Once you know what circuit has the problem you are way closer to finding and fixing it; say, if it IS the power windows, maybe one switch contact is sticking closed and continuing to try to run the motor though the window is fully closed. If so suspect the one that gets used the most, i.e. the driver's; try disconnecting that switch and see if the drain stops. If so, repair or replace that switch.
What would these jobs cost if not done yourself? It all depends, the sky is the limit. Fixing the hunting? say $25 (one hose obviously off) to $500, depending on the mechanic and also the cause and the cost of any components used to fix/try to fix it. Head gasket? From nothing if not needed and a mechanic is honest in saying so to $650-$900 or up, maybe even if NOT needed as you have already sold yourself on the work so it's easy to go along with the customer. Current drain? From probably $50 to probably $250, depending on cause, difficulty in tracing, and cost of any needed parts.
Try posting again and giving your locale and asking for recommendations on a nearby Saab independent garage. Good ones have seen it all and can fix most problems easily, and bulletin board posters' recommendations might mean they're fairly honest and unlikely to take you to the cleaner's.

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