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Re: Drain holes and rust.
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Posted by RaayF (more from RaayF) on Tue, 12 Jul 2005 13:08:19 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Drain holes not likely culprit...., Todd N, Tue, 12 Jul 2005 10:59:49
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Not likely culprit exactly but it's not necessarily leaks from above that are to blame. The holes (they're there to drain off the excess body primer when the car is dipped in manufacture) can be the starting point for rust, as they are edges of the panel, and they have moisture traps added, with the lapped lip of the rubber plugs. Even with the heavy undercoat, moisture eventually migrates in there; maybe some of it is coming from above but it could be merely the rainwater and snow melt that penetrate through the backing of the carpet (good reason to use those deep-well winter floor mats).
Once it's there close to the metal, it starts to rust it, and then the moisture-drawing properties of iron oxide keep it there and attract more out of the air, so things get worse. And then water can get in from below, from deep puddles and road splashes.
Mac's ideas on eliminating as much of the rust as you can, converting what remains to some other iron compound, and sealing it as well as you can with good paint, are mine almost exactly. Brushed-on synthetic enamel-base primer beats spray paint on a couple of scores. It is a high-solids paint without much VOC evaporating away, unlikely most spray primers, which leave a highly porous coating behind from where the vapor went out of it. And the brushing gets it into thorough good contact with the metal, and scours away any surface contaminants that might hinder bonding.
I think the P(aint) O(ver) R(ust)-15 is the same thing I have a couple of quarts of from Wurth, a cyanoacrylate paint that's a lot like super glue. I believe it has superior resistance to moisture penetrating it. Wurth wants you to paint it onto rust since it doesn't bond well at all to bare metal - - can be peeled off in sheets. But using a rust conversion coating first helps make the left-behind rust inactive. (My chemistry on this is shaky but I think they all use phosporic acid that makes FeO into iron phosphate or something non-moisture drawing.) Brands include Naval Jelly which is thickened; auto paint stores sell pints and quarts of a thin liquid that is meant for prepping bare steel before painting, that does the same thing if you can keep it on and keep it moist for long enough to act. Plastic wrap taped and draped over it helps.
Don't forget to also grind back undercoat from the underside of the drain holes to unrusted metal, and treat, paint, and reseal there as well.

posted by 70.16.104...
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