1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
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OK folks, it's a '94 (OG) turbo convertible w/ automatic trans. It has 114,177 miles on it, had 88,000 when I bought it in Aug of 2000. It was in Miami, Florida the first 6 years it was new. I bought it on ebaY, flew to Florida, and drove it home.
It ran fine for me for almost 2 years (it leaked plenty on the garage floor). I took it to a tech down the road (whom had been a certified Saab tech for 10 - 15 years at a local Saab dealership that closed) to have him seal up the leaks.
In July of 2002, it sputtered and coughed and stalled out on me on the way to my secretary's funeral. I got there, and while it was parked, it leaked out most of the coolant. I had the head gasket replaced w/in a month.
It ran OK for about 8 months (SEP 2002 to April 2003) then it would start to cut-out on me sitting at traffic lights or even accelerating uphill. It would sit and crank and not fire. If you sat awhile, eventually it would turn over. Some days it would quit on me 5 to 6 times on my 7 mile drive to work (in city traffic). It became so unreliable that I let it sit and started driving my '87 9000S w/ 185,000 miles on it - at least it got me to work.
So, starting in April 2003, I replaced the fuel pump, the plug wires, cap, & rotor, the coil, battery. I took it to several dealerships (who would charge plenty & not really do anything to correct the problem) and they would say they couldn't get it to repeat the problem I was having. They only checked the things I asked them to like fuel pressure, the coil, etc. I did have them put in a new ignition module.
The last time I had it to P&W in Pittsburgh, the brakes completely failed on my drive home, cost me another $1200 in abs parts & a master cylinder. I just want to get it road worthy to sell it & not be dangerous to the next owner.
I bought a new ignition switch, but have not yet installed it. Now that I have a new Honda Pilot to drive to work, I've been able to approach the CV with more patience. It just ran last weekend, long enough to back it out of the garage & then it just quit while I let it idle in the driveway to charge itself up (I had to charge the battery in the garage, it had sat too long and wouldn't start). I got it to start again w/in 15 minutes and pulled it down the driveway 75 feet into the shade to wash it. An hour later, it would not start, so I used a hand winch to get it back into the garage (100+ feet up a grade).
I charged the battery again this Monday for on 2 amp, and it would crank, but not fire. Got out the Bently manual & read that testing had to be done w/ a fully charged battery, so I charged it again on 2 amp for 12 hours or longer and got it charged.
Had the wife turn the key Thursday night while I tested each plug wire with a loose spark plug in it grounding the threaded area on the block - no spark on any of them. I used a brand new bosch super copper electrode 7560 plug which was gapped at 0.7mm. I didn't quite understand why the Bently manual said to use "a plug gapped to 4mm (0.16 or 5/32 in)" - that's a awful big gap. Just for shits & grins, I went through the rest of the Bently manual ignition tests (340-5 thru 340-7) tonight and they all seemed fine except I could not get the resistance readings they had in the manual on my cheap analog meter.
I'm at a loss for what to do next. What do you suggest?
posted by 67.21.72...
, Sat, 6 Aug 2005 07:18:42
, Sat, 6 Aug 2005 06:50:46
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