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1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Yah, talent on loan. Here's the thing: I had done a complete engine tranny replacement last year, complete with engine hoist and bench. I actually had to do it twice in the same month because the first donor engine turned out to be a bust. The second was a winner. By the time I'd finished that whole marathon - pulling two donors, plus what was in my car - four pulls total - I was burnt burnt burnt on the idea of having to pull it again when the tranny died a year later this past spring. Plus I didn't have access to the hoist and tools I had last year, and I wanted to do it at home where I could rest and eat when I wanted, plus take my time to do it right. Since I had already done many of the things one would ordinarily do with the engine out - replacing various bushings, engine mounts, cleaning, etc. - I was up for the challenge of doing it from below.
Main challenges:
+ keeping the engine in place with the front engine mount/primary gear case removed - using precise cut and notched pieces of 2x4 wood.
+ elevating the front of the car enough to work underneath - I also did the job on a forward slope so that with the front elevated, it wasn't an extreme angle.
+ removing much of the suspension to remove the lower cross member. If suspension work scares you, don't try it.
+ the lowering was easy (2 ton trolley jack) but lifting was dicey. With the tranny sitting on a 3/4" plywood base on the ground under the engine, I used pieces of wood (large and small), plus bricks to build up a platform one section at a time - raised enough so that I could slide the trolley jack underneath to do the remainder of the lifting. The point on which the trolley jack connects with the plywood base must be centered so that the tranny is basically level. It would help to have a second set of hands under there keeping it level until it is raised enough so that tipping over isn't an issue. And be sure to apply the sealant and gasket well before raising it above the level of the oil pump tube.
+ If the tranny shift connecting rod coupling cannot be removed because of the frozen taper pin, you won't have the room to drop it without damaging the steering rack hoses and piping - unless you undo the steering rack bolts and push it back against the firewall. May even have to remove the rack entirely. I was able to remove the shift rod coupling, so I didn't have to face that issue.
If you don't have general mechanic skills and access to tools and assorted stuff, don't try it. The benefits to pulling from above such as bushing and belt replacement, as well as main enigne bearing replacement, are worth the effort. There's also less physical abuse from doing so much work laying on the ground. Would I drop from below again? Depends on the situation and the car. At least I know it is doable, and I'd know what to look out for and what to do better. Probably take half the time if I did it again from below.
posted by 207.200.116...
, Mon, 15 Aug 2005 11:13:30, Sun, 14 Aug 2005 19:09:45
, Sun, 14 Aug 2005 20:13:43, Mon, 15 Aug 2005 14:55:23
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