1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Search my recent posts on my clutch job.... here's the short list : Buy a new/rebuilt master and slave units from Commercialtechservices AT yahoo. (They're on the site sponsor page but their link doesnt work) Get the new hydraulic line from Eeuroparts and find your local clutch shop to order a new clutch and pressure plate. I got mine at rochester clutch and brake for $135.... have the clutch shop preload the clutch so your reinstallation is EASIER than extracting the old one.
Extracting the old one: 1. remove hood (2 bolts) wiper hoses, radiator & upper hose, coil, grill, disconnect distributor, upshift sender, remove plastic cover over flywheel. At this point you should inspect the fingers on the clutch and below the slave for leakage. No leaking? Maybe your slave is still good... maybe its worth the $25 to replace it or have a spare or buy the replacement O-rings and rebuild it for $3.
2) Search this board for the process of using 1/2 inch nuts to depress the clutch fingers to insert a wire to keep the fingers depressed when you pull the flywheel off. I Modified the wire/nut process to include VISE grips at 2 of the 3 tongue points to keep the fingers depressed and to provide handles for working the clutch across the flywheel surface for its exit into the space near the battery ALONG WITH thew clutch slave at the same time.
3) At the point when the fingers are fully depressed, loosen the 3 5mm Allen head bolts securing the slave to the transmission, remove the spring clip and plate from other side of the trans, Use one of the flywheel bolts in the end of the shaft to extract the shaft from the transmission housing. Disconnect bleeder and line, if you haven't already. Now, pry the slave away from the trans housing - I used a drywall knife, slipped in between the slave and the housing to provide a smooth surface for the slave to slide out on.
4) Some judicious hammer tapping and pry bar helps in spots. Once the clutch is clear of two of the 3 p-ins it will come out easily. Get a hold of the vise grips and slide the clutch out towards the passenger side, nudging the slave across at the same time. It's more of an across and up process, but I did it in my driveway with tools on hand and an extra pair of hands here and there - especially on the reinstall. The only real trick to the reinstall is to tie the pressure plate in its approximate position and to get the slave kinda wedged against the trans wall as you ease the clutch into place ... helps to have 4 hands. Use loctite 512 on the bolts.
5) Read all posts on bleeding clutch with a bike tube. Easy!
If you take it to a garage..... yikes!
Goodluck
Christian
posted by 67.139.69...
, Wed, 17 Aug 2005 13:07:29
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
