Re: Seat heater grid - Saab 900 Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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Re: Seat heater grid
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Posted by RayF (more from RayF) on Mon, 28 Nov 2005 06:54:16 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: how do i get to the heater grid, Lars ew, Fri, 25 Nov 2005 16:37:04
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Yes, most likely in the base, not the back. Remove seat from car, pry center out of tilt-angle knob, twist spring clip CCW? or is it CW? till knob pulls off, remove side plastic trim piece (pry out plugs, remove screws), then unplug wire to back and undo bolts holding back to base. Then pry off spring clips holding front and rear leatherette skirt to base. Then slide fat wires in each side skirt about 1/2" towards front or rear, and one end will come free, pull other end out. Then, working from below with seat flipped over, using a stiff hook, maybe a bent piece of coathanger with a small L or J in end, unhook from seat frame wires the gray S-shaped hooks that go up through and hold the seat contours down to the base. I think there are 7 of them. One in center of front, one at each front corner, one at middle and one at rear each side, and one in center of seat at middle. They go to the wires that are housed in the "listings", canvas sleeves stitched to the seams of seat.
Then you can take cover right off seat. Heater wires are embedded in light foam, with a sort of gauze scrim attached on top, that is glued to the main foam of the seat.
Right, broken places probably look dark. I found them on mine where they were under stress where the listing and wire was pulling down against them. You can pull the gauze up and pull some slack in the wires by shortening up the S-shaped loops they make, pulling the wire free from the foam. I used a bic lighter to heat the insulation cause on my 89 it was so stiff from age it wouldn't strip without taking the wire with it unless I did that. I slid a little piece of heat-shrink tube up the wire before soldering, then slid it back over the splice and shrank it into place. I scraped the strands a little to get them brighter before trying to solder.
At the stress points where it crosses under the U-shaped wire that holds the seat down, I added a little plain wire of slightly heavier gauge and took a route that avoids any future pressure. At one end I simply started the wires off from the outside of that U-shaped wire, instead of starting at center of cushion and immediately crossing under the wire.
If you have any seat stiching issues or rotten or worn out listings, now is the time to take care of them. An auto upholstery shop might be a reasonable way to do this, with it disassembled. They might even put it all back together for you.

posted by 64.223.235...


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