1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
As far as your low milage, a couple of things come to mind. Your fuel air mix setting might be too rich. Adjusting that setting is pretty easy as I'm sure you know since you have the manuals. To set mine initially I first set it rich so the car would idle. Then once warmed up to operating temp, I turned the setting back until it began to struggle with idling, then I turned it rich until smooth. I actually needed to adjust it even more rich when I had it smog tested. That's the setting I now drive with, which must be on target to get the nice gas milage I now get. Don't want too lean or you risk burning the valves since the right amount of fuel spraying on the backs of the valves are what help keep them cool.
I mounted the w.u. regulator on the thermostat casing. When the engine is configured for stock 16V LH, the idle valve hose is bracketed with a clamp on the thermostat cover. I removed the clamp and attached the w.u. regulator on one of the exposed bolt holes. It's on there with just one bolt, but it is snug and is in a place where the heat will effect it's proper performance. A functioning w.u. regulator is crucial for adjusting the fuel air mix as the car warms up to operating temps. If it doesn't reach operating temps through direct contact with the coolant system, then it will continue to register "cold" and keep the fuel mix too rich. If you haven't mounted it in a proper place, that may be your fuel milage problem right there.
The aux air valve I mounted on an available flat space on the head toward the rear. I believe the flat space and bolt hole I used was for the fuel pressure regulator on the LH setup. I used a long piece of thick flexible rubber hose to connect to the input and return ports on the valve. The hoses are from a mid year 900, the valve cover to throttle body hose. A working aux air valve, in direct contact with the head, is also important for the CIS systems. Especially a cold start.
The depth of my injectors are pretty much the same as what is suggested in the guide you and I read. I used the same idea of surrounding the injectors with tubing (1/4" i.d. galvanized pipe first, then 1/2 copper over that) and I used the o-rings from the LH injectors and locked them (two per injector tip) in place by soldering copper wire around a slot I etched in each injector tip, creating a lock ring of sorts so the o-rings stay put when the injector is inserted in the manifold holes. I also used the CIS injector rubber grommets (plus drilled out washers) at the top of each injector to provide a base on which the moded fuel rail bracket will push down on the injectors. I liked using the LH fuel rail bracket since it fit perfectly in place and was easy to modify. Not too difficult any of it, just crafty craft craftsman stuff.
posted by 207.200.116...
, Sat, 3 Dec 2005 07:14:45
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
