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Update on electrical short tracing
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Posted by berkeleybull [Email] (more from berkeleybull) on Mon, 16 Jan 2006 14:55:43 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Electrical short tracing question, berkeleybull, Thu, 12 Jan 2006 16:32:00
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First, a big 'Thank you!' to all who have posted about this. This board and you guys are terrific.

I followed Tom G's resistance-test instructions on setting up the ohms test.

I disconnected and tested the positive battery cable between the alternator and the right wheel-well termination block. I was glad to see that it was 0.00, and stayed that way while I wiggled it around. I take it as a sign that I don't have a corrosion problem in that cable.

With both battery wires disconnectd, I put the multimeter positive lead to the ignition switch wire that comes off the right wheel-well connection block and the negative lead on the car frame.
With the ignition off, the passenger door open, and the light switch on the floor console set to '0', I got a reading of .57 with the mm set at 20K.
If I shut the passenger door, the meter readings gradually (over 10 minutes) climbed up to 16.67.

If I put the light switch in '1' position, or if I turned the ignition switch to start position, the readings fell to 0.00.

Following Bob H's suggestion, I then pulled the fuse block for the interior lights that is under the rear seat. With the fuse block out and the door shut, the meter readings gradually climbed up to 18.99 before turning into 1 .

I played with the passenger door switch and got the same results as opening and closing the passenger door. There was only one wire going to the switch, which I found odd.
The driver's side door switch didn't have any effect on the meter readings.

I'm not sure what it all means, but I tried a test drive yesterday with the interior lights fuse block out and the car didn't have any problems. I will have to drive it for a week or so to be able to tell if this is where the problem lies.

Will post more when I have something to add,

bb

bb










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