 |
|
|
1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
[Profile/Gallery]
, Mon, 16 Jan 2006 22:44:53
Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup
I have a hunch that the squeal might be belts or a harmonic balancer that is going south, if the squeal goes away after start up. Smell could be burning rubber. Belt tightening is straighforward...just don't over tighten. If you over tighten, alternator and waterpump bearings will be strained. There should be about 1/2" flex in the belts at the midpoint between pulleys.
If the belts are OK, you might have a bad harmonic balance. Search on this for lots of info on replacement. You sould be able to make it till Spring if the squeal just started. If the burning is from the clutch, you might have a bad clutch master cylinder that doesn't fully disengage. The symptom would be gear crunches when shifting...you didn't mention any shifting problems. If you can't shift and/or the squeal went away with belt adjustment, you might still need a clutch master.
A clutch master replacement is easy-moderate DIY. If you were able to bleed the clutch, master cyl replacement is within your ability. It unbolts from under the dash. First clamp off the hose from the brake reservoir to the clutch master and unhook the hose from the master. Then, loosen and remove the hydraulic line from the master. You can get to the master by removing the driver's seat and laying on you back, or by dropping the knee bolster and kneeling beside the car. Unhook the clevis pin linkage and remove the bolts so that you can pull the master out from the engine compartment. The clutch master can be rebuilt with a +/- $10 kit, but if the master bore is pitted, the new seals will soon be torn, so I would buy a rebuilt master. With luck this will solve your problem, especially if your clutch was good before this problem.
What sounds like P/S whine might be P/S whine. Power steering whine is normal and can sometimes be reduced by flushing the P/S fluid and replacing with new. I would do this when you have time, not urgent problem. Takes about 45 minutes the first time you do it.
Get a section of tubing about 4 feet long with an inside diameter of about 1/4". Buy a sort pipe nipple that will fit snugly into this tubing. The nipple will serve as a junction between the tube and the return hose to the reservoir.
Then unbolt the P/S reservoir (2 10mm bolts) and carefully pull back the reservoir to get the hoses and clamps through the holes in the fender wall. Loosen the upper hose clamp and gently pull the hose off the nipple. The reservoir nipples get brittle and are easy to break off. New reservoir is not that expensive from site sponsors.
Then push the nipple into the upper return hose and put the end of the 4 foot drain tube into a bucket. Plug the nipple with a golf tee. You will need about 4/5 quarts of P/S fluid. Have a helper start the engine briefly, and fun the dirty fluid out of the system. Stop the engine when the pump is dry. Then, wipe out the reservoir and clean off the magnet in the bottom. Once the reservoir is clean have your helper strat the engine while you pour fresh fluid fluid into the reservoir. Stop the engine after each quart so you don't run the pump dry. After 3 quarts or so of fluid the fluid should be running clear into the bucket. Reattach the return hose to the nipple and bolt the reservoir back to the body. Fill up the reservoir and start the engine and turn the wheel back and forth to bleed the air out. Top up fluid as required. This should be done once per year to keep your rack healthy.
posted by 208.208.152...
, Mon, 16 Jan 2006 22:44:53
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
