1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
George:
The work-around way is detailed on the townsendimports web site (Saabmaster, Enter, Technical Documents). You remove the upper and rear (front) bolts from the bracket, then use the alternator pivot bolt, extended as close to the firewall as you can get it, as a lever to tip the bracket on the remaining bolt, tilting it so you can pull the long bolt out.
Before I knew this, I got one out at a junkyard by using a long ball-end allen wrench, grabbing its short leg with a vise-grips, to crack loose and remove the bottom bolt. I recall tying the alternator back to the side with a piece of string.
Others suggest a swivel socket adaptor on a plain hex-bit socket, I think. Safer, as bolt head won't strip out.
Do a search on this site for lots more.
Many auto parts stores will test that alternator for you for free. If it tests bad and you're super cheap, you'll thank them and go to a Saab indy and ask if he has a working one he'll sell cheap, or go to a junkyard and get one. They last almost forever and can usually be renewed with new brushes. (Most common failure. Oh, woops, MOST common is a bad ground wire from alternator to block. The rubber vibration-isolating bushings make this necessary.)
If your alternator tests bad, you could remove the voltage regulator-brush holder (two screws) and check the brush length (could have worn out simultaneously with your little fireworks show).
To me, sparks doesn't necessarily mean you damaged anything.
Deeper rebuilding doesn't usually make sense, dollars-wise. Though you might try a local auto electric place. A guy near me will fix anything, cheaper than a rebuilt unit.
posted by 70.105.239...
, Sat, 28 Jan 2006 19:56:44
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