1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Todd: Some partial quotes from my post of last August, just after I did this:
"I followed Townsend and had starter motor break the bolt free. I used an old Snap-On long 1/2" drive ratchet I have, 14" long to end, which I was able to just work in above the shifter shaft and between rack and its fluid return hose and car body, to a point where I could catch the last few inches of the wrench handle with a cheater I made of a piece of 3/4" EMT conduit, bent about 15 degrees for 3 inches at the end. You need a ratchet and an angled cheater to get above the shifter shaft but below the frame rail. Otherwise I don't see how in the world Townsend's idea works.
...
On the main crank bolt, DON'T run starter too long. I had put a block of wood behind my ratchet to keep the socket square on the bolt head, and ended up jamming that block into the firewall I loosened screw so far. So I had to drive the wood out with a carpenter's bar, reverse the ratchet, then hand spin the socket till bolt was in enough to get wrench out of the way. Bolt also came out with fingers.
Crank pulley didn't want to come off and I had to drive a couple pickle forks up between it and oil pump cover bolt heads to get it moving; at end it came easy - - loctite by an earlier assembler?
Oil pump cover also took lots of coaxing off as oil rained down - - dowel pins are nearly exactly at 3 and 9 o'clock, which Townsend didn't say, if it helps knowing just where to pry."
If you're taking the oil pump cover off, I'd recommend pulling your oil filter and possibly draining your oil first; I think the filter serves as a reservoir for oil that keeps dripping out of the block passages and raining down on you throughout the job, if you don't take it off first.
posted by 64.222.222...
, Thu, 29 Jun 2006 10:58:30
, Thu, 29 Jun 2006 12:03:40
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