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, Fri, 21 Jul 2006 15:50:55
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...now that I am on a real computer I can type more quickly and answer the whole question. (My laptop crashed).
1) jack the car up from under the engine. Then check for play in the tie rods. If there is none, then you have your answer. Price of this self test is free, in keeping with vsfoxe. These are 20+ y.o. cars, so if they were never changed and you have a question after testing, go ahead and change.
2) Frequently the indies speak of swapping CV's side to side. This apparently gives tens of thousands of more miles to their lifetime. This is also free, and given you already need to address one, your gonna by necessity address the other if you use this method. Remember that CV's can be swapped, but not axles. The axles are side specific!!! Make sure to mark one axle with tape AND WRITE DOWN ON A PIECE OF PAPER which one you marked. Place the paper in the glovebox. Either that or mark one with one color and one with another, and leave yourself a legend in the glovebox to avoid re-assembly confusion. If you screw up you will pop and axle while driving.
3) Frequently just repacking is good enough.
4) If all you need is a repack, consider not pulling the axle, cutting the retainer, and repacking with appropriate grease. I have had good success with this. I have then used 1 or 2 zip ties to reseal with good results on the driver's side. The passenger's side is subject to heat so I would consider using a steel hoseclamp.
5) If the boot is torn but you just want to repack, consider just using a generic split boot. Cut off the old CV boot at the store and compare for size with a split boot. This avoids axle removal, lasts 2/3 the lifetime of OEM boots, and saves mondo time. It is a controversial move here, especially as it is not entirely as good as OE, but the time savings and the ease of instalation make up for not being 100% as good IMHO. Others have and will disagree. Read what they have to say, compare to what I have to say and make a decision. My way does avoid dropping ball joints and tie rods, and resealing the 33mm retainer nut with anti-seize and hoping it stays put.
6) If the ball joints are old and clunking, then just go the OE route and do it all and swap side to side CV's.
7) If you really couldn't be bothered, Jim Moncreif at sobstory.com is an awesome site supporter who sells rebuilt axles for 70 bucks after core fee is returned. Otherwise the CV joints alone are fairly innexpensive relatively, if you like to get down and dirty.
, Fri, 21 Jul 2006 14:31:03, Sat, 22 Jul 2006 11:16:51, Fri, 21 Jul 2006 15:50:55, Fri, 21 Jul 2006 19:26:52
, Tue, 25 Jul 2006 05:34:23
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