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I missed some spots Posted by Saana88 [Email] ![]() ![]() ![]() In Reply to: Re: OEM vs. Aftermarket parts, Saana88 ![]() ![]() |
Sorry for the omissions, I'll continue.
Typically a seal is a seal as long as it's installed with care; don't forget to read the note in the Bentley book about the oil seal that's under the crank pulley. I used a large socket as a driver for that one, kind of rough but it's in.
Alternator bushings: I stick with rubber; they last fifteen years or around 150k for me and I don't want to deal with vibration with polyurethane. How much shock are you going to send through your belts anyway? I can do those easily with the engine in, but if you're hitting everything else (like the aforementioned oil pump cover gasket and harmonic balancer you have to remove to get to the cover) it's probably a great idea.
It takes me so long to chew through a clutch that I typically use the kit with more pieces in it. It does not make sense to pull the clutch apart, only change the three main pieces, throw it back together and have a pilot or throw-out bearing die on you six months later. If the flywheel is less than beautiful it'll also make sense to bring it and $20 to a machine shop while your car is disassembled anyway and have it resurfaced.
Motor mounts: I did both of mine, but this may be apples and oranges. I have rubber mounts, you have hydraulics. In my family's experience, the rear mounts (rubber, again) last around 175k and then start to sag so much the shift linkage can't put the car in fifth anymore. We get around 120k out of a (again, rubber) front mount. Turbos and hard driving may put extra force on them so you may not do as well.
Do they make transmission overhaul kits? That's territory unknown for me, but I've heard the bible for that is the Saab (chapter 8?) manual transmission repair manual and a good set of snap-ring pliers.
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