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Re: Master Cylinder rebuild tips? Posted by RS [Email] (#15) [Profile/Gallery] (more from RS) on Tue, 8 Aug 2006 04:47:11 In Reply to: Master Cylinder rebuild tips?, 900Fun, Mon, 7 Aug 2006 20:22:01 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Here's my experience. Some people have better long-term luck luck with rebuilding clutch masters than others.
Assuming that there's no pitting inside the cylinder, it's an easy job.
Getting it in and out of the car is harder than the actual rebuild. I found that having a 13-mm crowsfoot wrench and a long extension with a wobble fitting is very helpful for removing the flare fitting for the hydraulic line.
You can access the master cylinder mounting nuts and clevis pin without removing the lower dash if you're good at finding your way around under there by touch.
On the master cylinder in my car, it was difficult to get the piston out because there was a little ring of varnish around the rear opening to the master cylinder. I pushed it in as far as I could, cleaned the varnish up with brake cleaner and some fine emery paper, then rinsed it out with brake cleaner and brake fluid a few times. It came out easily after that. Be careful to remove all of the grit. The bore on mine was pretty smooth, so the new seals have worked well for the past few years.
One problem may be that the internal spring which pushes the piston to the back of the bore when the pedal is released may be broken. When I opened up the master in my '89, the spring was broken into 3 pieces. I lucked out because I had a spare cylinder that had an intact spring that I used as a replacement.
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